LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 



UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



pQ^ti TRAYELS 



IN 

BIBLE L^HSTDS 

ITALY, EGYPT, GREECE, ASIA MINOR, 
SYRIA, AND PALESTINE. 

BY 

REV. EMERSON ANDREWS, A.B.,A.M., 

evangelist. author of " revival sermons," 
" youth's picture sermons," etc. 



The liberal soul shall be made fat. — Solomon. 

For me to live is Christ, and to die is gain. — Phil. i. 2L 



BOSTON: 
PUBLISHED BY JAMES H. EARLE, 
No, 96 Washington Street. 
1872. 



Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1871, 
BY EMERSON ANDREWS, 
In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at "Washington. 



Stereotyped at the Boston Stereotype Foundry, 
No. 19 Spring Lane. 



PREFACE. 



Another volume for you and for the millions. Verily, of 
the making of books there is no end. So let it be of all the 
true, good, and useful. Truth and virtue are really mighty; 
yea, stronger far than base fiction or charming vice, and must 
finally prevail. Godliness, too, is ever profitable. We have 
the promise : it is only a matter of time. 0, then, let us raise 
high the banner of the Cross, and roll back the raging tide 
of error, vice, and destruction ! Sin and Satan are yet run- 
ning riot. 

Can we not timely interest and benefit the dear youth and 
the reading community with Bible truth, scenes, food, and 
facts of real life, with good hopes of the future ? Let us ever 
try, and trust, and pray, and watch, and rejoice. 

While quite young I began to attend the Sunday school, to 
read the Bible and religious books, and also to peruse history, 
travels, and scientific works. So I have always been careful 
to select choice and profitable works, as I would good com- 
pany, well adapted to expand, develop, and discipline the mind, 
to invigorate and elevate the heart and soul, to store and 

3 



4 



PREFACE. 



strengthen the memory, to vitalize, direct, and establish the 
will in prosecuting good resolutions for God, for humanity, and 
for heaven. Blessed birthright ! 

But especially did I feel my responsibility, and cherish a 
thirst for sacred knowledge, after my conversion to God — to 
do good, and to win souls to Christ* 

Thus after reading, musing, praying, and preaching, I longed 
for and often and anxiously contemplated a visit to the Holy 
Land and other sacred places of Bible fame, that I might learn, 
profit, and enjoy somewhat, and be a more efficient minister. 
So Providence, in due time, opened the way, granted my re- " 
quest, and crowned the arduous enterprise with large success. 

I had previously visited England, Ireland, Scotland, and 
France, being a delegate and visitor to the World's Temper- 
ance Convention, to the Evangelical Alliance, and to other re- 
ligious bodies. But I could not be satisfied short of seeing the 
hallowed places, and of treading in the very footsteps of Christ • 
and the Bible worthies. So I went, saw, felt, spoke, wrote, 
preached, and prayed, and have ever thanked God for this un- 
speakable privilege. I have returned, I trust, a wiser, richer, 
better, and happier man, and a more efficient Evangelist. To 
God be all and endless praise ! 

During my tour I preached many sermons, of which I have 
written these sketches since my foreign letters were published 
in the American Baptist in New York. 

Learning, on my return home, that my letters were read with 
much interest and profit by friends in Sunday schools and in 
families, I soon resolved to collect, revise, and- publish the 
same in a volume for their special use. O, let us forestall 
the wily enemy, and fill the minds of the young with sacred 
truth and pure thoughts. 



PREFACE. 



5 



Being often asked for the little things, items, and incidents 
of travels, as well as the great, I here give you the whole, 
truly, freely, and in all its variety. In addition to illustrations 
of historic places, which are of interest to all classes, I have 
had a few illustrations put in especially for my young friends. 

Now, my dear friend and reader, I have great pleasure in 
presenting you this book of Travels in Bible Lands, as a 
pure and prayerful gift, hoping thereby to do your soul good, 
and to advance the Redeemer's kingdom. 

Now let me enjoy your prayers, and share your earnest co- 
operation in holding up Mount Zion's banner, till the world 
shall be filled with peace and crowned with glory. 

Emerson Andrews. 

Philadelphia, Pa., July, 1871. 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 



PAGE 

Emerson Andrews Frontispiece. 

The Cross our only Hope 13 

View of St. Peter's from the Tiber 32 

Remains of On, or Heliopolis 60 

The Good Shepherd 67 

Our Father, who art in Heaven 76 

God is Love 88 

Damascus 91 

Sidon . . . 93 

Jerusalem 97 

Street in Jerusalem. , 108 

Pool of Siloam 113 

Bethlehem 120 

Rachel's Tomb -140 

Jews' Wailing-place 155 

Mount of Olives 156 

The Crown of Life 191 



CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER PAGE 

I. Sermon (on Shipboard) : Christ and his 

Cross 9 

II. Letter : Passage to France. 19 

III. Sermon (in Paris) : Brotherly Love. . . 25 

IV. Letter: The Wonders of Rome 29 

V. Sermon (in Rome) : Paul's Message to 

the Romans 38 

VI. Letter: Naples and Pompeii. 44 

VII. Letter: From Italy to Egypt 51 

VIII. Letter: Cairo and the Pyramids. ... 56 
IX. Sermon (in Cairo) : Room for All. ... 64 

X. Letter: Patmos and Smyrna 70 

XI. Sermon (in Smyrna) : The Spirit's .Work. 74 

XII. Letter: Athens 74 

XIII. Sermon (in Athens) : Constraining Love. 79 

XIV. Letter: Beyroot via Paul's Route. . . 86 
XV. Letter : From Joppa to Jerusalem. ... 90 

XVI. Sermon (in Jerusalem) : Mount Zion's 

Glory. 99 

XVII. Letter : A Walk about Zion 106 

7 



8 



CONTENTS. 



XVIII. Letter: Wonders of Jerusalem in 

XIX. Letter: Calvary and Holy Places . . .115 

XX. Letter: Bethlehem 119 

XXI. Letter : Condition and Prospects of the 

Holy City 124 

XXII. Letter: Mount Moriah and Vicinity. . 129 

XXIII. Letter: Visit to the Jordan and the 

Dead Sea . 133 

XXIV. Letter : Scenes of the Jordan 142 

XXV. Letter: Farewell to Palestine 149 

XXVI. Letter: Farewell to Egypt 160 

XXVII. Letter: Retrospect at Malta. ..... 165 

XXVIII. Letter: Tour of the Rhine 172 

XXIX. Letter : London and the Anniversaries. 178 
XXX. Sermon (in London) : The Great Salva- 
tion 189 



CHAPTER I. 



SERMON (ON SHIPBOARD) : CHRIST AND HIS CROSS. 

"For we preach not ourselves, but Christ Jesus the Lord; 
and ourselves your servants for Jesus' sake." — 2 Cor. iv. 5. 

RETHREN and friends, fellow-passen- 
gers on the ship, and fellow-voyagers 
on the sea of time to the wide ocean 
of eternity, let ns now look to the Holy Bible as 
our chart, and to Christ as the Captain of our 
salvation. Herein is our sure hope and happi- 
ness. 

In the good providence of God we are gath- 
ered on this fine ship, amidst ample provisions 
for life and comfort, outfitted for our passage 
on the broad Atlantic to England and France. 
Thus I am bound to the "Bible lands." 

It seems fit, in the nature of things, and in 

9 




10 



TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 



view of our spiritual prospects, that we, on ship- 
board, and on this Lord's day, should bow our- 
selves in the worship of Jehovah, and ask his 
gracious protection. 

I was glad when the courteous captain ex- 
pressed the kind and ardent wish of the officers 
and cabin passengers, and desired me to preach 
on this interesting occasion. A goodly number 
of us profess the religion of Jesus Christ, and 
some others are interested for their own souls' 
salvation. 

We have just been delighted and refreshed in 
singing that good old hymn, "The Star of Beth- 
lehem," giving the Christian experience of Kirke 
White in nautical poetic language. How ap- 
propriate, and how full of revival instruction 
and rich grace ! 

Everything around us is full of interest, won- 
der, majesty and revelation. w The heavens 
declare the glory of God, and the firmament 
shows his handy work. Day unto day utters 
speech, and night unto night shows knowledge. 
There is no speech nor language where their 
voice is not heard. Their line is gone out 
through all the earth, and their, words to the 



CHRIST AND HIS CROSS. 



11 



end of the world." Truly creation reveals in- 
visible things of th^ great eternal power and 
Godhead, so that sinners have no excuse. All 
have the light of nature, and are condemned by 
it. -They are verily guilty, and are punished 
accordingly. 

Behold now the revelation of grace, eclipsing 
all other manifestations. Life and immortality 
are brought to light by the glorious gospel. 
Here is the key of knowledge, happiness, and 
heaven. In the Bible we behold, as in a glass, 
the glory of the Lord, and are changed into the 
same image from glory to glory, by the Holy 
Spirit. Now, if any man will do God's will, he 
shall know of the doctrine ; and to know it 
aright is life eternal. To-day, my friends, you 
may share salvation. 

Behold the Lamb of God, who takes away the 
sins of the world ! What more could the Sa- 
viour have done for our rescue ? How guilty and 
wretched are they who finally neglect the great 
salvation ! 

Jesus Christ left the glories of heaven for 
earth, to save you, and me, and other lost sin- 
ners. He walked on the land and on the sea, 



12 



TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 



and wrought many and mighty miracles of 
mercy, but was despised and rejected by sin- 
ful Jews and Gentiles. Though he was the 
Creator of all things, and the only Benefactor 
and Saviour of mankind, he was cradled in a 
manger, and while on earth was refused a 
place to lay his head. How mysterious ! 

Look, and see Jesus healing the sick, feed- 
ing the hungry, clothing the naked, and rais- 
ing the dead! But see him insulted, betrayed, 
crucified, buried, raised, and going about for 
forty days, showing himself, revealing the 
Scriptures, giving the great commission to 
his disciples, and then ascending up into 
heaven ! Behold now the blessed Saviour, 
sitting at the right hand of God, making in- 
tercession for us ! Here is our only hope and 
salvation. 

w God forbid that I should glory, save in the 
Cross of our Lord Jesus Christ ! " This is our 
theme, our only hope, our success, our victory, 
and our crown. 

We preach Christ Jesus the Lord, as did Paul, 
the great apostle, and present ourselves as ser- 
vants, for Jesus"' sake. He who has ears to 




13 



CHKIST AND HIS CKOSS. 



15 



hear, let him hear what the Spirit says to the 
churches. O, be wise, and let your profiting be 
known to all men. It is our great duty and 
divine commission to show forth the power and 
practicability of the blessed gospel; to be liv- 
ing epistles of Christ; to be the light of the 
world, and the salt of the earth. We see light 
in Christ's light. He is our all and in all ; our 
Alpha and Omega. 

Christ is our Creator, Preserver, and Saviour. 
In him dwells all the fullness of the Godhead 
bodily. He is the brightness of his Father's 
glory, and the express image of his person: so 
we should worship and serve him, keep all his 
commands and ordinances, and walk blamelessly 
before God and man. 

Christ has purchased salvation for us, and 
granted us a day of grace. Therefore it be- 
comes every soul to repent of his sins, and to 
accept of divine mercy — so ample, free, worthy, 
and all-satisfying. Ho ! every one who thirsts, 
come ! 

The Holy Spirit convinces of sin, of right- 
eousness, and of judgment to come ; therefore 
yield your heart, will, and powers to his bidding. 



16 



TKAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 



As many as are led by the Spirit of God, they 
are the sons of God. There is no condemnation 
to those who walk not after the flesh, but after 
the Spirit. 

Let no one grieve nor quench the Holy 
Spirit ! For his office-work is to convince, 
convert, sanctify, and glorify. He takes the 
things of time and eternity, — heaven, earth, and 
hell, — and dashes the burning light of God and 
truth right across the sinner's vision, as no earth- 
ly eloquence can do, as no imagination can con- 
ceive. He melts the hard heart, and leads the 
contrite soul to the bleeding cross, to behold 
the forgiving Saviour, to believe and be saved. 
So, he "reads his title clear to those heavenly 
mansions in the skies," and goes on his way 
rejoicing, singing redeeming love ! Herein is 
peace like a river, and righteousness like the 
waves of the sea. The Spirit leads the faithful 
into all truth, into Christ, into heaven. 

The Lord raises up and sends forth godly 
preachers to "blow the gospel trumpet," to 
warn, invite, and welcome wanderers home. So 
they go forth into all the world to preach Christ 
to lost sinners, and to win broken-hearted souls 



CHRIST AND HIS CROSS. 



17 



to Christ and to glory. Therefore believe, and 
be immersed, and testify to your faith and hope 
in the Saviour's resurrection, and that of all the 
righteous through him, to a blessed immortality. 
Christ is God's unspeakable gift. Will you ac- 
cept him, and make your election sure? 

Religion is just what all sinners need, and 
must have, or be lost forever. It is our great 
panoply. It is the consolation and support of 
all Christians. 

"They who go down to the sea in ships, and 
do business in great waters, these see the works 
of the Lord, and his wonders in the deep." 
Truly we are instructed and greatly blessed 
to-day. How grateful we should be ! and how 
prayerful and faithful should be the officers and 
the crew ! How befitting for us here on the roll- 
ing ocean, on our way to Europe, — yes, on our 
way to death and judgment, — to prepare to 
meet God ! Is there an unbeliever present ? 
One out of Christ? One unfit for heaven? 
Now, then, take to Jesus, to the Life-boat, and 
board the old ship Zion, and be saved forever! 
Brethren, let us all pray, thank God, and take 
courage. 



18 



TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 



a We'll stem the storm ; it won't be long; 
We'll anchor by and by." 

May we — passengers, officers, and crew — 
take Jesus Christ for our Captain, Pilot, Physi- 
cian, Saviour, and all; the Bible for our chart, 
compass, glass, lead, and lay; duties for our ra- 
tions and health ; and final perseverance in well- 
doing, to secure the heavenly port and prize ! 

Thus trusting in God, we shall make the haven 
of rest and eternal glory. Now let us sing the 
"Bower of Prayer." Receive the benediction. 
Amen. 



CHAPTER II. 



LETTER : PASSAGE TO FRANCE. 



FF to the " Bible lands " ! A pilgrim to 
the sacred world ! Thus my record 
runs. 

When my solemn duty to God and to man 
was fully decided, — with my passport and let- 
ters of introduction in pocket, and all ready for 
my Oriental voyage, — I took my passage in the 
old steamship Ariel, Captain Ludlow, of New 
York. 

There were about three hundred souls on 
board, in the first and second cabins, and in 
the steerage, besides the officers and crew. 

The impassioned scene of friends parting with 
their " beloved ones " was soul-thrilling and 
heart-rending. It cited me to the awful separa- 
tions of friends, families, and neighbors at the 

19 




20 



TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 



judgment day. What an eternal sundering then 
of saints from sinners ! 

Our dear brethren Ward and Taylor, and many 
others of the city, came to see me off. And hav- 
ing kindly saluted us, I cheerfully reciprocated 
their friendship, and bade them and my other 
American friends an affectionate farewell. Steam 
already up, plank now drawn in, and the moving 
signal given, at twelve o'clock on Saturday, the 
30th of October, away we sailed for Europe. 

Nothing of note took place after leaving till 
we reached the " Narrows 99 of New York Bay, 
when we all came to a sudden halt. Some of 
the steerage passengers had " bogus tickets," and 
could not proceed till all was settled. All things 
soon adjusted, onward we steamed. Soon rain 
and east wind came vehemently upon us. On 
the morning of our first Lord's day the ocean 
was boisterous, and all of us were too seasick 
for public worship ; so we read the 107th Psalm, 
verses 21-30, many times over, and praised God 
for his goodness, wonderful works, and match- 
less grace. There are beauty and sublimity on 
the ocean — winds playing on waves, whales 
spouting, and porpoises sporting around the 



PASSAGE TO FRANCE . 



21 



ship ; while birds of varied plumage join with 
the flying-fish to interest and edify the weary 
passengers on the mighty deep. 

On the second Lord's day out, all being calm 
and favorable, the cabin passengers, through the 
politeness of the captain, invited me to preach to 
them. I did so, and apparently with blessed 
effect. It was a solemn, melting season. 

Soon after service, head winds blew again ter- 
ribly ; then the rain poured down in awful tor- 
rents, the thunder and lightning intensified the 
gloomy scene, a perfect gale sprang up, a hurri- 
cane was immediately upon us. Here our staunch 
ship rolled and labored, but still ploughed the 
mighty ocean waves. Great consternation for 
a while seized the passengers, and prompted 
many to look to the Lord for wisdom and help. 
In a few days more all was calm, and we were 
cheerful as ever, wending our way to w the de- 
sired haven." 

On the third Lord's day we had no public 
worship, except the usual "blessing" asked at 
the table, for the passengers generally were so 
eager to get sight of land that preaching was 
suspended. 



22 



TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 



On the 17th of November we made Southamp- 
ton, England ; and .after spending a day, we 
left, and on the 19th made the port of Havre, 
France. 

Here we landed, in health, with grateful and 
happy hearts, after a diversified and somewhat 
stormy and dangerous passage, amidst adverse 
winds, shifting hopes, fears, and joys, in twenty 
days from New York. Thanks be to God for 
infinite mercies ! 

After seeing the new sights in Havre, and the 
old city of Rouen, I came via railroad to Paris. 
Truly I find great improvements made, except 
in morals, since I was here twelve years ago, at 
the time of their "Three Days Fetes," or great 
celebration. 

Last Lord's day, I attended worship at the 
"American Chapel," where Eev. Mr. Leeley 
officiated in the morning, according to the Epis- 
copal form ; and in the afternoon, without his 
robes, conc]ucted worship in Presbyterian style. 
He did not, I suppose, really f? change his coat," 
but it looked rather singular, changeable, and 
accommodating for a Presbyterian minister. 

I worshipped at two other Protestant chapels, 



PASSAGE TO FRANCE. 23 



and heard some excellent sermons in English. 
There are some good things and people yet in 
Paris. 

I am interested and delighted amidst great 
privileges and splendid scenery in this central 
city. But when I leave, after a few days, I shall 
visit Italy, Egypt, Greece, and Palestine. 

On the following Wednesday, we had a very 
interesting missionary " semi-centenary," at Rue 
Roy ale, in the Methodist Chapel. Some eight or 
ten ministers were present, and a good audience. 
A number spoke. 

After reading the reports, and giving numer- 
ous statistics of success, Rev. Mr. Leeley, of 
the American Chapel, offered various resolu- 
tions, which, by request, I seconded and sup- 
ported ; also another resolution to appoint a 
committee to fix the place and time to hold a 
union prayer-meeting, in view of a revival in 
Paris. This last I most heartily spoke in favor 
of. Yea, I had the privilege of w preaching" the 
pure gospel in the "heart of the wicked world." 
O, my brethren, I assure you we had a warm, 
hearty revival — a brotherly, Christian, true love- 
feast ! The ministers, and some lay-brethren 



24 



TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 



from America and elsewhere, spoke as if God 
moved them by his Spirit. 

O, pray for Paris and the world ! and may the 
Lord bless his feeble, faithful few, till every 
nation shall worship God in spirit and in truth ! 
God is able, and grace is promised. My spirit 
was really refreshed by the revival spirit and 
heart-reciprocity of the meeting — this growing 
oasis in a spiritual desert ! What a feast we 
had, while surrounded with rank popery and 
infidelity ! But 1 am off for Rome. 



CHAPTER III. 



sermon (in paris) : brotherly love. 

" Let brotherly love continue." — Heb. xiii. 1. 

RETHREN and friends, assembled here 
in Paris, in this "metropolis of the 
world," at this missionary meeting, 
to celebrate the semi-centenary of Methodism, 
I need not say that it gives an American Chris- 
tian unspeakable joy to meet and share with 
these beloved brethren in the interesting and 
refreshing services of this anniversary. Truly 
we have an overflowing table, surrounded with 
happy guests — a feast of reason, fullness of 
heart, and a flow of soul. Thoughts breathe 
with life, and words burn with love. I thank 
you, dear friends, and bless the Lord, for this 
distinguished privilege. 

25 




26 TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 

I have left America, three thousand miles 
away, to enjoy this interesting occasion, to par 
ticipate in other religious devotions and enter 
prises, and to prosecute my travels in w Bible 
lands." I am most heartily glad of this oppor- 
tunity to meet, mingle, pray, sing, and speak 
with the children of God of divers tongues, 
clearly speaking the language of Canaan. Some 
eight or ten different speakers here, representing 
as many different nationalities and a rich variety 
of denominations, have struck the same key- 
note and focal point of Christian union and 
effort. 

True religion I find to be the same in all 
climes and kingdoms. I am ever resolved to 
reciprocate with my fellow-Christians of various 
names in devotions, labors and reformations, 
as far as we can mutually cherish our reason, 
conscience, and the Bible. Then, being filled 
with the Holy Spirit, we shall not fall out by the 
way, but be fellow-helpers to the truth and to 
Zion. Let us co-operate, and labor for revivals, 
and ever preach for the conversion of sinners, 
and hail the foretaste and full fruition of the 
promised millennium. 



BROTHERLY LOVE. 



27 



A motion has been made and seconded to in- 
stitute a " Union Daily Prayer-meeting " in this 
city. I rejoice. This is an important move- 
ment in the right direction. The cause demands 
it. Now, with the securing of a place, and the 
appointment of the time, and the faithful perse- 
verance in duty, you may surely expect a great 
spiritual blessing on this Christian enterprise. I 
rejoice to say that in America we have many 
such meetings, well attended, well sustained, 
very interesting, and profitable. Short prayers, 
short speeches, warm exhortations, earnest re- 
quests for prayers for the conversion of sinners, 
— present or absent, — interspersed with spirit- 
ual singing, mark the exercises, and are at- 
tended with great success. Sometimes reports 
are made coming from distant states, and those 
nearer by, of conversions, revivals, or refor- 
mations, in answer to the union of prayer and 
the union of effort. How cheering and re- 
viving to the true Christians ! We thank God 
and take courage as promises are fulfilled, and 
new trophies of grace are proclaimed. Warm 
hearts, with gratitude and thanksgiving, inspire 
loud hosannas from the joyful multitudes. I 



28 



TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 



hope God will grant you like blessings, and 
more abundant. Kevivals are all-important for 
us and for you. 

The city of Paris — the centre of the civilized 
nations of the earth — demands our sympathy, 
prayers, zealous spiritual co-operation in evan- 
gelizing her millions of citizens and surrounding 
subjects. Were Paris Christianized, what a 
mighty lever or engine of reformatory power 
we should have for the conquest of the world ! 
Verily I have felt much interest for this city and 
suburbs, and for Christian missions in other 
quarters of Christendom and heathendom, ever 
since my conversion to Jesus Christ. 

I am joyful and very grateful for the present 
expression of brotherly love and union. May 
this be but the beginning of a revival wave to 
sweep the world ! We would most gladly wel- 
come you all in America, and, at last, share with 
you in heaven. 



CHAPTER IV. 



LETTER : THE WONDERS OF ROME. 



OING to Rome? Nay, I am here, at 
last, resting in my easy-chair and 
hired room. How wonderful ! how 
interesting ! What associations rush upon my 
mind ! But I am really in the " City of Seven 
Hills " and the home of the Caesars. 

My journey from Paris, via railroad, through 
the fine cities of Dijon and Lyons, and through 
a rich, rolling farming country, was truly in- 
teresting; while the distant and surrounding 
scenery of high hills, rocky mountains, rivers, 
and ravines, interspersed with life and art, gave 
enchantment to the view. 

The river Rhone is fine and meandering, and 
beautifully lined, on each side, with rich varie- 
ties. 

29 




30 



TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 



Marseilles is a seaport, an old city, very dead 
and dreary, except in the new part, which has 
recently sprung up from the increased interest in 
navigation, and the building of a new, capacious 
harbor. 

From Marseilles I came by steamboat to 
Civita Vecchia, a city, harbor, and military 
post, but otherwise of little importance. The 
fare all along is rather high, but living and ac- 
commodations are good. 

Next I took the diligence for fifty miles along 
the coast, — abounding in beggars, — from seven 
o'clock in the evening till seven the next morn- 
ing, and was well jostled up hill and down, till I 
was glad to find a resting-place in old Rome. I 
here took up my lodgings at the " Hotel de la 
Minerve," a fine house. 

By the way, I must not omit to mention that 
I was an honored "bearer of U. S. A. despatches" 
from Paris to Rome, from minister to minister, 
and to our consul. I had all the concomitants 
and privileges of "a man of state." 

I have called on our minister, Mr. Stockton, 
ex-minister Cass, and Mr. Glent worth, our con- 
sul. All of these "honorable gentlemen" have 



THE WONDERS OF ROME. 



31 



honored me with their calls and valuable civili- 
ties. 

Since my arrival here it has rained most of the 
time, yet I have been busy in w sight-seeing." I 
have already visited the noted splendid ruins, 
the palaces of the Caesars, the Coliseum, the old 
Forum, also the Vatican, St. Peter's, studios of 
Bartholomew and Crawford, reading rooms, pic- 
ture galleries, and numerous other places of in- 
terest, over the Tiber, outside and inside of the 
city, besides the Amphitheatre, great museums, 
fountains, monuments, squares, statues, and fine 
architectural churches. St. Peter's excels any- 
thing that I ever saw. It is equal to some 
twenty of our city churches in size and capacity. 
Its statuary also, with its mosaic pictures, fine 
proportions, and exquisite finish, from the varie- 
gated marble floor and the sunk panelled walls 
to the zenith of the great dome, some four hun- 
dred and fifty feet high, are all exquisitely beau- 
tiful and sublime as imagination can conceive, or 
ability execute. Art has here taxed all her 
powers. 

In this vast cathedral I have attended mass 
twice. It seemed very solemn, and sometimes 



32 



TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 



awful, amidst all the surroundings. The music 
of the organs, choirs, beating of drums, choruses 
and responses, were all in the most perfect artis- 
tic style and taste. The sing-song reading and 






■uiil 















view of st. peter's from the tiber. 

reciting, with the singing, were most euphoni- 
ous, melodious, sweet, and pathetic. Christ, 
too, in figure, was elevated on the cross. Hun- 
dreds of long candles were burning; incense 
was smoking ; multitudes were kneeling ; scores 



THE WONDERS OF ROME. 



33 



of robed priests were officiating ; soldiers were 
attending in full uniform ; and all combined to 
make a picture and an impression never wit- 
nessed or known but in Papal Rome. But what 
is mere form or pageantry, without the power or 
the piety? The heart must be renewed. 

The people generally seem poor, ignorant, 
idle, and depraved ; a few officials are rich. A 
priest even came to my room as a beggar. The 
rich grind the poor. 

I am truly delighted with the fine arts, but I 
am heartily disgusted with the morality and re- 
ligious mockery of Papal Rome. Yet, on last 
Lord's day, I visited again the old Vatican, and 
was admitted to the interior. Here I saw the 
"august Pope," in pontifical garb, and witnessed 
his ceremonies in the celebration of "high mass." 
This was a solemn, splendid romance. At ten 
o'clock A. M., the Sistine Chapel doors were 
thrown open to worshippers and visitors in high 
dress, — for those in meaner apparel were actu- 
ally turned away, — and each entrance was 
guarded by a band of soldiers in full uniform. 
O, how unlike the religion of the cross ! Priests 
and novices then thronged the aisles. Visitors 
3 



34 



TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 



and representatives of all nations, long on tip- 
toe, now make a general rush for places, and to 
see the lion of the day. 

The cardinals, some thirty in number, in trail- 
ing purple silk robes, came with majestic tread 
and pompous airs, while their pages walked close 
behind, holding up their long trails by a silk 
cord and tassel, till these magnates were each 
duly seated all around. Soon followed the arch- 
bishop, in grand attire, wearing a splendid mitre, 
bowing, courtesying, kneeling, and crossing, till 
seated in his dignity. All gazed with open, faces, 
and strangers asked, in anxious excitement, "Is 
he the Pope?" A short pause. Soon came in 
the variously dressed chamberlains, friars, and 
cross-bearers, making their genuflections and 
signs ; and next followed, in dignified step 
and style, the Pope himself. The excitement 
was intense and general. All looked and stared ; 
some bowed and manoeuvred ; while some others 
criticised the solemn farce, and forgot to pay rev- 
erence to Pope Nino. He was gently led by his 
aids to a golden bench in front of the gorgeous 
crucifix. Here the Pope bowed, crossed himself, 
and knelt, and was then led to an elevated, beau- 



THE WONDERS OF ROME. 



35 



tified side seat. His majesty was clothed with a 
crimson robe, overlaid and interwoven with gold, 
and wore a tall mitre, red shoes, and white stock- 
ings. Behold him ! how perfectly antichrist ! 

The chief bishop now burned incense to the 
Pope, then to the crucifix, and then to all 
around. This, done, the subordinates went 
through the ridiculous ceremony of kissing the 
Pope's hand, — not his toe, — he raising his right 
hand, while sitting wrapped in his gorgeous ap- 
parel, underneath divers thicknesses of silk, so 
that they actually kissed his robe, or kissed at 
his hand. What folly ! 

Pope Nino then read, and sang, and spoke 
very well. The singing was truly excellent. 
All parts were executed exquisitely. Four 
eunuchs sang the alto. The various melodious 
responses, chants, and accompaniments, with 
drums beating time outside, were, when all 
combined, in fine keeping with the genius and 
spirit of Popery. At last the Pope pronounced 
the benediction, and we left. Yea, I was truly 
glad to get away from the chapel of the Pope's 
castle, and to preach Christ elsewhere to sin- 
ners. 



36 



TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 



It is really in St. Peter's, the great cathedral, 
that you see scores of devotees — yea, hundreds 
— kiss the big toe of a bronze statue of St. 
Peter, so called, until the toe is about half worn 
off by the wiping and kissing. But the statue is 
really supposed to be one of old Jupiter, conse- 
crated to Popery. Oftentimes persons bow and 
kiss it, or at it, as if it were the real Pope's toe. 
But enough of this folly and idolatry. The Lord 
deliver us ! 

I had previously been invited to read and con- 
duct Episcopal service, on Sunday morning, in 
the American chapel, but I declined. In the 
afternoon, however, I complied with an invita- 
tion to preach and conduct worship according to 
our usages. Blessed time ! Here, in the palace 
of the American Minister, and under the United 
States flag, I preached to interested hundreds 
the pure gospel, from Rom. i. 15. Representa- 
tives of different nations, speaking English and 
other languages, were present, and joined in 
singing praises to God. We had our usual free- 
dom of speech, and shared a precious melting 
season. We closed the services by singing a 
psalm, in the tune of Old Hundred, with which 



THE WONDERS OF ROME. 



37 



all seemed delighted. So we gave the benedic- 
tion, and we parted. 

The Charge d' Affaires took me home to sup- 
per, and said he felt as if he had made a visit to 
America that afternoon, and was happy. 

To-morrow (D. V.) I shall start via diligence 
for Naples and Mount Vesuvius, in Southern 
Italy. 



CHAPTER V. 



SERMON (IN ROME) : PAUL'S MESSAGE TO THE 
ROMANS. 

" So, as much as lies in me, I am ready to preach the good 
news to you also who are at Rome." — Rom. i. 15. 

AUL, the world's evangelist, preached, 
wrote, and prayed for the salvation of 
mankind — Jew and Gentile. 
The apostle despatches a long, doctrinal, and 
practical — yea, experimental and consoling — 
epistle to the brethren at Rome, by our good 
sister Phebe, a deaconess. 

Paul longs for the privilege of seeing his dear 
friends face to face, and is ready, at God's bid- 
ding, to preach to them and theirs the good 
news of salvation. He had labored successfully 
elsewhere, and is now ready for his work at 
Rome. God invited, heard, and answered his 

38 




Paul's message to the romans. 



39 



prayers. In due time Paul, a prisoner, bound 
in chains, arrived at public expense, had an 
audience, and preached the kingdom of God to 
the multitude, till the Jews disagreed, and de- 
parted, leaving Paul with his friends to enjoy 
his liberty. So the apostle w dwelt two whole 
years in his own hired house, and received all 
who came to him, preaching the cross with all 
freedom, no man forbidding him." Praise the 
Lord ! 

What a gospel triumph ! a Christian victory ! 
Here I am on the old spiritual battle-ground. 
Here I am in the city of the martyrs, of the 
Caesars, of the Popes ! 

This morning I heard Pope Nino and his 
priests, listened to the splendid singing, saw the 
purple-robed cardinals, and wondered at the vain 
and vaunting formalities in the Sistine Chapel 
of the Vatican. There was the form and tinsel, 
without the power or the soul. 

Now, by your polite invitation, under God, I 
am with you, dear friends, to preach Christ and 
the resurrection. Here, in the chapel of the 
American minister, in a palace surmounted by 
the United States flag of stars and stripes, I 



40 TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 

am here robed in silk, after the custom of Eome 
and the English clergy, to urge these hundreds, 
in Christ's stead, to be reconciled to God. Truly, 
my heart is moved under these solemn and in- 
teresting circumstances. What thrilling associa- 
tions rush to my mind ! 

An American evangelist, four thousand miles 
away from home, is now standing where Paul 
stood and preached eighteen hundred years ago ; 
and I am now preaching to representatives -of all 
parts of the world, whom I shall not meet again 
till the judgment. I feel unusually solemn, and 
realize my responsibility. Will you pray for 
me and for yourselves while I address you ? 

Paul was once an unbeliever and a rebel of 
the boldest class. Grace slew him, and trans- 
formed him into the likeness of Jesus. He then 
began to preach the very gospel which he had so 
strenuously opposed. He has now become a 
new man. " Old things are passed away, and all 
has become new." Paul preaches, and 'writes, 
and sends his numerous and inspired epistles to 
all the world. 

The gospel finds sinners as it did Saul of Tar- 
sus, unbelieving, proud, worldly, mad, and re- 



paui/s message to the romans. 41 

bellious. The Holy Spirit comes like a still small 
voice, or like a mighty rushing wind upon sinners, 
as the "breath upon the valley of dry bones," 
and Pentecost is re-enacted, and multitudes are 
converted to God. The gospel is the power of 
God unto salvation to every one who believes ; 
yea, it is the K two-edged sword of God to slay 
and make alive." It is mighty to the pulling 
down of the strongholds of sin, Satan, heresy, 
infidelity, and idolatry. 

The gospel is a revelation of God's will, mind, 
and heart, of time and eternity, to men and 
angels. Here we can see ourselves, our only 
hope, and our eternal destinies. Life and im- 
mortality are brought to light by the gospel. 
Let us be living epistles, to be known and read 
of all men, as practical editions of the gospel. 
Therein is " peace like a river, and righteousness 
like the waves of the sea." Bless the Lord for 
these letters of love sent to us, and to the na- 
tions, from above ! Jesus Christ writes to his 
bride and to all his children. Good news, 
good news, to penitent, inquiring, believing 
souls ! All are invited to gospel blessings — 
the waters of life — while it is a day of grace. 



42 



TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 



The Jews rejected their only Saviour and the 
day of salvation, and many Gentiles have done 
despite to the offers of mercy. Better far for 
reprobates if they had never heard of the gospel. 
w Quench not the Spirit ! " 

O, accept the good news of salvation, while 
the door, of mercy is open ! The provisions are 
ample, and grace is free. Religion is all impor- 
tant, and salvation is worthy of all acceptation. 
Believers are the ready and blessed recipients. 
How gracious the terms ! God is honored, and 
fallen men are ennobled and saved. 

We find in the gospel a sure, free, and per- 
fect panoply, for defence, offence, and progress. 
Success is insured against living enemies, the 
horrors and sting of death, and the torments of 
the lake of fire. Look within and without, and 
watch. 

The gospel is an engine of power in conquer- 
ing men, transforming men into Christ's image, 
and fitting them for life, death, judgment, and 
heaven. Glorious plan of grace ! 

Here is the motive power in conversion, sanc- 
tification, and redemption ; for civilization, evan- 
gelization, reformations, temperance, revivals, 



Paul's message to the romans. 43 

and the millennium. Pray for it, that you may 
have power with God and with men, and prevail 
like a prince ! All things will then work well 
for you. 

If any of you, my respectful hearers, are yet 
unconverted, to-day give your hearts to Jesus; 
repent and believe. Farewell, my brethren : be 
perfect, live in love, and God will bless you. 




CHAPTER VI. 

% 

LETTER: NAPLES AND POMPEII. 



EFORE I left Rome, I just took a 
bird's-eye view of the Pope's summer 
seat, called the " Palace of St. Paul," 
and situated outside of the city, near St. Paul's 
Road, or the Appian Way. 

This place is a splendid affair, far more beau- 
tiful and spacious than the real Vatican. The 
rooms, furniture, pictures, and statues are of a 
fine order and finish, all of the first style. Real- 
ly I was struck with the amplitude of the man- 
sion, the richness and variety of embellishments, 
the surrounding gardens, the numerous foun- 
tains, and splendid devices on all hands. Paul 
may have had a cottage here. 

The Pope spends here three months of the 
year — August, September, and October — amid 

44 




- NAPLES AND POMPEII. 



45 



these luxurious profusions. But I envy him not. 
They generally regard St. Paul's as more healthy 
in warm weather than the Vatican. This spa- 
cious palace is now tenantless, while thousands 
of the poor Catholics are homeless ; but it is just 
like Popery. By the w r ay, Pope Pius IX. is a 
portly, good-looking old man, and is said to be 
moral and much respected, which cannot be said, 
in truth, of many of his priests, and especially 
of the cardinals. 

I left Eome for this place, as I expected and 
wrote. We came one hundred and fifty miles by 
diligence, and were thirty hours rolling over a 
gpod road. We had twenty-two different postil- 
ions on the way, each one, and many others, 
begging in their turn. I was severely annoyed 
'by them and their treachery. O, the ignorance, 
immorality, and degradation of Italy ! 

Since I arrived at Naples I have seen and en- 
joyed much. A few days ago I scaled Mount 
Vesuvius, walking on the newly-formed crust, 
while the white-hot lava ran close beneath, be- 
low, and in veins all around. Awful picture ! 
Liquid fire, mountains of lava, smoky relics, 
muttering thunder, with slight shakes. 



46 



TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 



At the " tip top " there is little fire to be seen, 
but great volumes of cloudy smoke roll forth. 
New craters have appeared on the west side of 
the mountain, and are now most frequently belch- 
ing out rolling streams of liquid fire in all direc- 
tions, covering, at times, small huts and houses, 
burning down large trees, spreading a pall of 
mourning over all things near and around. Here 
was terrible consternation only a few nights ago 
— a river of fire rolling swiftly down ! 

Yesterday I visited Pompeii, the great and 
noted city destroyed by eruptions of hot water, 
ashes, and lava, belched forth from Mount Ve- 
suvius. The ruins are vast and untold. Ex- 
huming is. going on, and important discoveries 
are constantly effected. The old broken col- 
umns, walks, stajues, demolished houses, re- 
mains of the great amphitheatre, the altars, 
forums, fountains, — all point to greatness and 
grandeur past. I saw many floors, walks, and 
walls beautified with the most splendid mosaic 
and fine workmanship, representing men, beasts, 
birds, fishes, reptiles, and insects ; yea, victories 
and history. Once the fine arts were there, but 
now the gloomy ruins. 



NAPLES AND POMPEII. 



47 



I have just visited the great museum of Na- 
ples. It is really rich and grand. It contains 
one of the greatest libraries in the world, and a 
remarkably rich variety of choice relics, and 
magnificent specimens of nature and art. Tfye 
bronze statuary is fine and extensive, and much 
of other material is in good order and taste ; also 
many others are united from broken pieces gath- 
ered from old ruins. The paintings are good, 
and all the pictures in mosaic are truly splendid. 
I will say no more now of these monuments of 
departed glory. 

I have had a most pleasant interview with 
Rev. Mr. Pugh, the English Church minister, 
and dined with him and family. There is a 
sprinkling of Christianity here, but we want a 
copious shower. O that the Lord would revive 
his work here, and save souls ! This is emphat- 
ically a missionary field, white and ready for the 
harvest. I am in prime health and spirits. Fare- 
well. 

Naples, December 13. The elite of cities and 
nations are here, and with poor, degraded Italians 
are in awful contrast. The higher classes roll 
in wealth, splendor, and luxury ; but the lower 



48 



TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 



are ignorant, filthy, lazy, and worse. They 
seem destitute of morality, and honor, and hope. 

I like Naples, as a city, better than Rome : 
there is more heart and life. The situation, 
streets, and prospects are far better. The Bay 
of Naples surpasses all others in beauty. The 
streets on the Crescent Bay contain some of the 
finest palaces, houses, hotels, and commanding 
views. Nature has done much for Naples. It 
is all that could be desired physically ; but the 
people have abused themselves and perverted 
everything. 

Our American minister, Hon. Mr. Chandler, 
lives in a splendid mansion, overlooking the 
bay, the needle points of the Crescent, and the 
fiery Mount Vesuvius. I have made him & fash- 
ionable call, and had a cheerful interview. I was 
acquainted with his noble family in Philadelphia, 
Pa., and enjoyed their hospitalities there some 
years ago. He says the climate of this city does 
not agree- with his health. As he is a Catholic, 
he is well surrounded by his brethren. But as 
to religion, I see little of it here, even in form 
or pretension, except occasionally. 

The king of the Sicilies does not reside in 



NAPLES AND POMPEII. 



49 



Naples for fear of his life, except to stay now 
and then a night, but lives or stops at a military 
post. 

This being a seaport, there is more business 
and enterprise here than in Rome, and many 
foreigners, besides visitors, are giving tone to 
commerce and improvements, and doing some- 
thing for pure religion. 

Eev. Mr. Pugh, whom I saw last week, is a 
fine, social, Christian gentleman, partly sustained 
by his chaplaincy, and partly by other means. 
He has a good congregation. I listened to his 
preaching yesterday with interest and profit. 
No revivals here! Dead, dead, dead! — moral- 
ly and spiritually ! just staying, dragging their 
"slow length along," but not living. Can- 
not something be done to save Italy? Cannot 
prayer and effort reach their case ? The tokens 
of perdition are really evident, but the Great 
Physician can heal the vilest souls. I have often 
felt sick on seeing such revolting spectacles of 
vice and degradation in Italy. May the good 
Lord preserve America, and constrain us to do" 
our duty to God and all mankind ! 

The price of living here has greatly increased 
4 



50 



TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 



of late. Hotels and boarding-houses charge 
about the same as in America. The lower 
classes, and some others, may get along more 
cheaply, but style is costly even in Naples. The 
Crimean war raised prices. 

To-day (D. V.) I expect to leave for Sicily, 
Malta, and Egypt by a French steamer. You 
know St. Paul landed at Malta. 

The weather here has been remarkably wet, 
and inconvenient for visiting and sight-seeing; 
but when I get to Alexandria, rain will not so 
interpose. We have had here only tw r o or three 
fair days for two weeks. So much for w sunny 
Italy." No frosts yet. Orange and lemon 
trees hang full. Gardens are green and fruit- 
ful as in summer. The natural blessings, sanc- 
tified by true religion^ would make this a para- 
dise ! 



CHAPTER VII- 



LETTER : FROM ITALY TO EGYPT. 



HAT a contrast ! Down in Egypt land 
— Alexandria ! Be it so. While 
looking back, we steamed out of Na- 
ples, on the 13th of December, after enjoying a 
provable and pleasant visit. 

In our rear we left the dense portion of the 
city, lining the Crescent Bay. On our right 
appeared high hills, fortifications, Nero's Baths 
(boiling hot, near the spot called Puteoli, where 
Paul landed and rested on his way to Eome) , 
and also many high and beautiful rocks, pointing 
like needles at the Crescent's w Eye." On our 
left were the rest of the city-lined w Crescent," 
diversified hills, charming valleys and villas, all 
the way to the point ; but the most conspicuous 
and crowning of all, was the "Old Mount Vesu- 

51 




52 



TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 



vius," a self-trimmed beacon, lighting freely 
in and out of port its delighted visitors and 
guests. 

On we gazed, and on we sailed a few hours, 
amidst the most splendid, along-shore scenery, 
till all was perfectly eclipsed by the huge, high, 
ever-burning Stromboli. This was a sublime 
spectacle ! — Nature's chandelier in full blaze, 
like legions of tall-piped furnaces, elevated and 
multiplied in full blast, with "old Pluto " at the 
bottom, blowing and stirring up the mighty 
flames. Thus we passed between Scylla and 
Chary bdis all safe. 

We stopped a while at Messina, a city and sea- 
port of Sicily. Here is a fine harbor, and all is 
strongly fortified. The people appear better, 
and all things wear an improved aspect as we 
distance the " seat of the beast." This island is 
noted as a resort for consumptive invalids in 
winter. Many Americans have come on to 
spend the .cold season. Some have died. 

On leaving the island, we soon passed Mount 
Etna, but its flames were sleeping. On we 
sailed. 

The Isle of Malta, so famous in Scripture, 



FROM ITALY TO EGYPT. 



53 



soon greeted our anxious eyes, and here we 
landed — Paul-like, perhaps, though not wrecked 
— near St. Paul's Bay, and then explored its 
beauties. This is a small and rather barren, 
rocky island — a military stronghold of the Eng- 
lish government. It is a fine commercial radi- 
ating point, the K central port " for ships on the 
Mediterranean, and quite in advance of other 
cities just named, and most purely English. 

I visited the old Catholic church, St. John's. 
It is very large, and of symmetrical form, with 
fine finish. Bass-relief and costly ornaments 
adorn the walls. The floor is variegated with 
highly wrought marble slabs, overlaying the 
tombs of some scores of distinguished Knights 
Templars of Malta. Coats of arms, and all 
manner of devices for the honored dead, were 
beautifully inscribed, according to art, fact, or 
fancy. But O, how soon the glory of the world 
vanishes away ! 

After leaving Malta, four days more of steam- 
ing brings us to Alexandria in Egypt — the land 
of the Pharaohs. Here we were greeted by an 
army of " flouring windmills," lining the right 
shore, as if to escort us in by their open, long, 



54 



TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 



flying arms. It was rather squally weather ; 
many were sea-sick, and the port was hard to 
enter. But best of all, just then, I found a 
young man w sin-sick" and anxious ; so I admin- 
istered to the inquiring soul, as if I were quite 
at home. Would that myriads more would cry 
for salvation in this benighted region ! O, pray 
for it ! 

Yesterday I worshipped at the Episcopal 
and Presbyterian chapels. Here the gospel 
work is hard, but sure. 

To-day I have visited the old Catacombs, 
Pompey's Pillar, the cemetery, Cleopatra's 
Needle, the great canal, and various bazaars. 
But, O, you would have laughed to see me 
riding an ass on a gallop, a boy running along 
behind, with a stick to goad him on, through 
the mud or sand, jerking the donkey's tail 
to turn him right or left, or in an opposite 
direction, till the little silly beast stumbled, 
throwing me over his head, and himself over 
me — a ludicrous plight, but not so bad as it 
might have been. I shall learn how to ride 
donkeys by and' by, as well as I have horses. 
I like this city : industry, peace, and plenty 



FROM ITALY TO EGYPT. 



55 



mark the place. The Arab women often go 
veiled, and, I am told, are more faithful to their 
Mohammedan religion than those of other creeds 
are to theirs. Soon I am off, via railroad, 
to Cairo. Adieu. 



CHAPTER VIII. 



LETTER: CAIRO AND THE PYRAMIDS. 



LEFT Alexandria on the 22d instant, 
via railroad, for this place, as I wrote 
you. On my way to the depot, my 
little donkey turned a great summerset with me, 
making a laughable picture of the ass and its 
rider exchanging places and direction ; but no 
great harm was done — only a little straining of 
my ankle, caught in the stirrup. 

Our whole course up the valley of the Nile, 
from Alexandria to Cairo, was through a most 
interesting section of country, resembling one 
vast prairie, dotted with crops, shrubs, and little 
mud villages, and occasionally some better build- 
ings ; but poverty and oppression exist here. 
For a hundred and fifty miles the land is very 

56 




CAIRO AND THE PYRAMIDS. 



57 



level^with only now and then a little ridge or 
knoll ol sand to build on. The soil is rich, 
black, fertile, and from one inch to twenty feet 
deep, mostly alluvial. Cotton, wheat, corn, 
grass, herds and flocks, with many fine gardens 
and orchards, show the productive power of the 
soil. But, O, the mud houses and hamlets ! — 
a village of round huts with no windows, but an 
open door on the eastern side ; a village of mud, 
like so many hay-cocks encircling a big hay- 
stack, the chief, living in the centre of the hum- 
ble black group. The laboring classes thus live 
like, and often with, the brutes. 

There are no fences. They sometimes dig 
ditches and canals. They have to irrigate their 
farms at this season to secure crops. Pumps, 
mills, and water-proof baskets are used to ele- 
vate water into channels for this purpose. 

Though it was very wet at Alexandria, after a 
distance of fifty miles all was drought through 
to Cairo. Here we have a large city of two 
hundred and fifty thousand inhabitants, and mul- 
titudes of pilgrims. The place is marked with 
many beauties by nature within and around, and 
the newer part by industry and art. 



58 TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 

I have visited the great citadel ; the mosque 
and tomb of Amer, one thousand years old ; the 
sepulchres of the caliphs, on the blights, and 
near the precipice where the Mamelukes were 
driven off and killed by the Turks ; also the 
" Well of Joseph," sonfe three hundred feet 
deep ; and many other spots of note and in- 
terest. 

The mighty Pyramids show their towering 
heights and grandeur in the twelve miles' dis- 
tance, appearing singularly beautiful at sunset 
above the vast surrounding plain. There is a 
want of variety ; and these, like mounds and 
hills, stand out in delightful contrast to break 
the monotony. But if such indefatigable energy 
w r ere rightly expended to raise men and morals, 
exalt minds and souls to heaven, what a moral 
oasis we should see in a desert ! How Mount 
Zion would stand up in glorious contrast with 
the low plains of old Egypt or Sodom ! O, the 
wretched .condition of nine tenths of mankind ! 
And yet how little is being done by Christians ! 
Not one half so much as is expended for tobacco, 
saying nothing of rum and opium. May Ethi- 
opia soon stretch forth her hands to the Lord ! 



CAIRO AND THE PYRAMIDS. 



59 



If I had permission and the language, I would 
like to hold a protracted meeting here. But no ; 
I must leave this field for others. God directs. 

The people seem quiet, poor, rather temperate, 
— except in smoking tobacco, — unaspiring, and 
at ease in their sins. I pity them. 

America has two missionaries here. O for 
scores of faithful preachers to proclaim Christ 
and the resurrection ! 

I shall make more explorations soon, and 
write you again. Farewell in doing good ! 

December 24. To-clay I visited the ruins of 
Heliopolis. O, what must Egypt have been in 
its pomp and glory ! The monument here is 
much like Cleopatra's Needle, at Alexandria, 
which is some seventy-five feet high, and seven 
and a half feet square at the base ; while Porn- 
pey's Pillar is some ten feet higher, and eight 
feet square at its base. Both are beacon orna- 
ments to Alexandria. But this of Heliopolis is 
some fifty feet higher than either, and this stands 
out alone some twelve miles north of Cairo. O, 
what immense power and art were required to 
get a solid piece of porphyry, or red granite, into 
such a place and position! Nay, the strength 



60 TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 

and glory of Egypt have really departed. " Sin 
is a shame to any people." 




REMAINS OF ON, OR HELXOPOLIS. 



I visited and viewed the palace and harem of 
Ibrahim Pacha to-day. It is truly a great affair, 
but at the sacrifice of purity, and the poor, sinful 
pleasure is short. 

Cairo is surrounded with more sand and mi- 



CAIEO AND THE PYRAMIDS. 



61 



evenness than any spot lower down the Nile. 
Corn, dates, oranges, grapes, olives, figs, and 
other fine fruits, are quite plenty. We have no 
apples, except what come here from Austria. 
Sugar-cane is abundant. No potatoes. Toma- 
toes come now to market by cart-loads. We 
had fish for dinner, but those from the Nile are 
rather small and soft. Beans, lentils, and peas 
are plenty and good, and so are vegetables gen- 
erally, in this region. 

To-day it rained powerfully for an hour, and 
the streets are all mud. This is now an un- 
usual occurrence. 

Verily I am all out with donkeys, they tire so 
quick and stumble under me, though I lately 
rode one to the Pyramids and back — twenty- 
four miles — in one day. But then the donkey 
boys are never satisfied with the stipulated pay, 
— so it is in most other cases, — and they will 
beg. 

The English language is taught in the schools, 
but only a smattering is obtained. 

Water is carried in skins and jugs to the 
houses, and is often pumped up by ox or mule 
power to irrigate farms and gardens. 



62 



TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 



December 25. I wish you Merry Christmas. 
The weather is fine and balmy. In going to the 
Pyramids of Ghizeh, I crossed the Nile near 
where Moses is said to have floated in the 
smeared rush or flag basket. You are cited to 
the very spot, and shown the boat. 

I went on, and into one of three of the 
vast Pyramids to-day noon, — the largest is 
Cheops, — and saw six more but a little way 
off. O, wonderful labor, superstition, and folly ! 
One of these measured seven hundred feet square 
at its base, and ran up by contracting steps on 
the four sides five hundred feet high, to a point 
or platform. All of these are on the margin of 
a sandy desert. The Arabs extort a good deal 
of money from visitors, but I was not duped. 

I notice, along the Nile and desert, many 
weak, sore, and blind eyes. Some say dust, 
sun, filth, and disease really produce these sad 
effects ; but it seems to Jbe an epidemic. Poor 
creatures-! They sleep in hovels of mud, and 
bask in the sunshine, and lie all covered with 
swarms of flies. 

Lord's day, 26th. I attended the English 
Church — forty hearers present ; also the Pres- 



CAIEO AND THE PYRAMIDS. 



63 



byterian Chapel — twenty hearers present. I 
gave a "talk" at the latter on revivals, from the 
text, "Yet there is room," and had a good 
season. 

I saw the Pasha twice to-day, drawn in a 
grand coach by four fine black horses. He is 
a noble personage. This is a great day here for 
sports and dissipation. Business is allowed to 
go on as usual, save a little less of it. The 
wild, dancing dervishes have a great frolic to- 
day, and other buffoons, too. 

The plague, which was so fearful four months 
ago, has passed away ; yet Egypt is under quar- 
antine by the seaports of Joppa and Beirut. 

I shall soon return to Alexandria, where I 
took a good bath in the Mediterranean the other 
day. I shall go on to Jerusalem via Athens, 
Smyrna, and Joppa. So I view the "Bible 
lands" as we go. 



CHAPTEB IX. 



sermon (in cairo) : a gospel feast in egypt. 

"Lord, it is done as thou didst command, and yet there is 
room." — Luke xiv. 22. 



ELIGiGN in God's kingdom is a great 
feast, to which you all are invited. 
Salvation by Jesus Christ is freely 
offered. All of every class who come to it are 
readily and graciously welcomed ; and yet there 
is room — room for you, room for me, and room 
for all mankind. 

In the good providence of God I am permitted 
to visit Cairo, — the land of Joseph and Moses, 
— and address you, my brethren and friends, 
as an ambassador of Jesus, with invitations to 
you all to share the great supper. 

I am glad, that, in this great city of Cairo, of 

64 




ROOM FOR ALL. 



65 



three hundred thousand people, — the city of the 
caliphs and caravans, — I am permitted to min- 
gle with Christian friends in the worship of the 
living God, and to preach Christ to you, and the 
gospel feast to all who will come. 

Nothing of the world ever satisfies the de- 
mands of the immortal soul. Men have sought 
it, but in vain. The rich valley of the Nile 
yields abundance of food for the body, but not 
for the soul. Behold the towering Pyramid of 
Cheops or Ghizeh, twelve miles off, at the south- 
west, standing five hundred feet high, and on a 
base of equal or greater width — all significant 
of earthly crowns, pride, skill, labor, patience, 
costly and lasting folly, but not of satisfaction 
to the immortal mind. Yet there is room, and 
eternal fullness in Christ's kingdom. Earth's 
show is all eclipsed. 

Divers recreations, and all kinds of worship, 
I see in this ancient city, but little of the true 
religion. This cannice, or church, is to me an 
oasis in a desert. Here we have the pure gos- 
pel feast, of rich satiety and grace. Few yet 
come to it, while the many, with one mind, 
make their vain excuses. 
5 



66 



TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 



Jesus Christ has come himself, and has sent 
forth his evangelists and servants to win sinners 
to religion and to eternal life. Many are called, 
but few are chosen. O, what sinful excuses ! 
One has bought ground, and must go to see it ; 
another has bought five yoke of oxen, and must 
try them ; and the last has married a wife, and 
cannot come. They wish to be excused, and 
God, in his anger, lets them alone. As it was 
with sinners anciently, so it is now. 

Behold the missionaries going with invita- 
tions into the highways, to call everybody to the 
banquet of love, saying, "Yet there is room." 
The hedges are even scoured, and the guests 
from all quarters are constrained to come in. 
Come and enter the fold of the good Shepherd, 
who will lead you into green pastures, and be- 
side still waters, who will tenderly watch over 
you, and keep you safe to the end. 

Blessed be God, there yet is room ; room 
for you, young or old, rich or poor, bond or 
free, sick, lame, or lost ; for all repenting sin- 
ners ! Yes, there is room in the arms of Jesus 
— in his atonement, in his sacrifice, in his pres- 
ence chamber, in his invitation and promises ; 



THE GOOD SHEPHERD. 



ROOM FOR ALL. 



69 



room enough in Christ's mercy, in the baptismal 
waters, at the Lord's table, in the church, in the 
prayer-meeting, Sabbath school, missionary field, 
for all our numbers and powers ; room enough 
in heaven, in the Father's house, for all return- 
ing prodigals, in the glorious mansions of bliss, 
in the company of the Triune Jehovah, and of 
angels, and all the blood-washed forever ! O, 
yes, there is room enough in paradise, and 
we'll have a shout in glory. O, why, then, 
will any linger, or make vain excuses. 

O, come, sinners, and embrace the Saviour! 
Now is the appointed time and the day of sal- 
vation. 

And now, dear brethren, I must thank you, 
under God, for this privilege. Be faithful to 
souls in Cairo, in all Egypt, in Africa, in the 
world. I shall be glad to meet you in America ; 
yea, in the resurrection of the just, and in heaven 
forever. Farewell. Amen ! 



CHAPTER X. 



LETTER : PATMOS AND SMYRNA. 



ANUARY 1. I wish you all a Happy- 
New Year ; and well I may, for I feel 
a kind of cheerful inspiration to-day. 
Who can wonder at the revival of heavenly 
emotions in my soul, when sacred and sublime 
associations rush so vividly upon my mind? 
Mine eyes have just been joyfully greeted with 
the long-wished-for sight of the veritable Apoca- 
lyptic "isle that is called Patmos," John's pulpit. 
In size it is about ten miles long and five wide. 
The surface is beautifully diversified by rocky 
cliffs, verdant hills, rich ravines, and a few fer- 
tile plains. Some of the elevations are from six 
to seven or even eight hundred feet above the 
level of the sea. On the north is the highest 
peak, but the third range from the south end has 

70 




PATMOS AND SMYRNA. 



71 



a "city on a hill." Upon this beautiful emi- 
nence, surrounded with hills, ravines, islands, 
and seas, is a fine stone meeting-house, now 
occupied by the Greek Church, — Catholic Bap- 
tists, — called " St. John the Divine." We be- 
held it with profound emotions of solemn awe, 
Christian gratitude, and sacred delight. 

We could not define the precise spot on which 
John — while in exile and in prison, and under 
the power of the Holy Spirit — wrote the book 
of Revelation. But we saw the place where 
stands the unshaken monument of the resurrec- 
tion of the dead, and the true Baptists, their 
origin and succession. The baptistery is really 
there, despite all the heretical innovations. Yea, 
and the pure ordinances of baptism and the 
Lord's Supper will stand till Christ comes in his 
glory. O, let us glory only in the cross, and 
receive the plaudit, "Well done, good and faith- 
ful servants ; enter thou into the joy of the 
Lord." 

January 6. I am just closing my five days of 
quarantine on board of an Austrian steamer, in 
the bay of old Smyrna, choosing to serve my 
quarantine where I can enjoy good fare, room, 
and company, rather than risk my chance at the 



72 



TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 



lazaretto, and share the confinement with Turks 
and other foreigners. 

This bay is very picturesque, and the very best 
harbor that I have seen. It is protected on the 
north, south, east, and west by splendid high- 
lands. At the entrance on the north-west, nu- 
merous small, elevated islands form an efficient 
guard. Many steamships and other craft find a 
safe refuge and anchorage here. 

The city of Smyrna contains about eighty 
thousand souls. The backgrounds are diversi- 
fied and elevated, draped with cypress and vege- 
tation, unscathed by frost. The Turkish ceme- 
tery is a grove of cypress, interspersed with 
white obelisks. On the extreme heights are the 
ruins of the ancient citadel and the garrison. 
Thousands of cannon from these points might be 
discharged high over the city buildings, and ex- 
terminate an armed^ squadron in the bay, without 
harm to the citizens. On the south side of the 
hill, about half a mile from the old citadel, is a 
modernized Greek chapel. This stands, it is 
credibly said, on the identical spot where one of 
the primitive "seven churches of Asia" once held 
worship (Rev. ii. 8-11), and was constructed, 
in part, of the old remaining stones and relics. 



PATMOS AND SMYRNA. 



73 



There is now an old baptistery very close by, and 
a large fountain there in full play. 

January 7. To-day the Greek churches are 
celebrating their Christmas - — twelve clays later 
than ours, old style instead of new style. I at- 
tended their " mass " in the morning, at eight 
o'clock, in the city church, and in another in the 
afternoon. Their exercises were chiefly singing, 
reading, kissing sacred- pictures, and crossing 
themselves, much like the Eoman Catholics. All 
stand during worship. The Greek churches are 
well constructed and finely adorned. The Turk- 
ish mosque also is very symmetrical and beauti- 
ful — quite charming. 

The old city was on the hill, a mile off ; but 
the present one lines the bay, with the newest 
part on the north, improved by the English and 
French railroad enterprise. The ruins surround- 
ing Smyrna signify palmy days, greatness, and 
glory, long departed. 

On Lord's day last, I heard Eev. Mr. Ladd 
preach in Turkish. I called with him on Rev. 
Mr. Dodd ; preached, and took supper with 
these good missionaries. 

I am off to Greece in a day or two. 



CHAPTER XI. 



SERMON (IN SMYRNA) : THE SPIRIT'S WORK. 
< < Be filled with the Spirit." — Eph. v. 18. 

FEEL very grateful, my dear hearers, 
for this great privilege. 

Here I am in an ancient city, made 
famous by the location of one of the seven prim- 
itive churches. Near by this is a house of wor- 
ship, built, it is said, of the stones and on the 
ruins of the first temple. Behold the fine bap- 
tistery alongside of it, and other corroborating 
evidences ! Praise God ! 

Here you have a large, growing, commercial 
city, surrounded with the bay, hills and splendid 
scenery, bringing to our minds many interesting 
associations. Only a few days ago I viewed 
the celebrated Isle of Patmos. O that we 

74 




THE SPIRIT'S WORK. 



75 



may be filled with the Spirit, like John the 
divine ! 

Truly it gives mo great pleasure to meet 
brethren Ladd and Dodd, of the American mis- 
sions, and to join with them and their associates 
in the worship of God in this foreign land. 

Paul's injunction to the Ephesians comes very 
near home to us. A short distance from this we 
see that once noted and exalted city, now in 
awful ruins. If they had heeded the text, how 
* different would have been their history ! 

My dear brethren in the ministry and in the 
membership, endeavor to keep the unity of the 
Spirit in the bonds of peace and love. 

David felt assured that if he were filled and 
upheld by the Spirit, he could preach effectively, 
and that sinners would be converted. So may 
we be sustained, and most glorious results will 
follow. Surrounded as you are by people of 
divers tongues, religions, and customs, — all 
perverted by sin, error, forms, and infidelity, — 
you must feel your need of divine help, and be 
often found at the mercy-seat. And, parents, 
gather together the little ones whom God has 
given you, and teach them to look to him for 



76 



TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 



help. Mothers, in the quiet of your own room, 
wait with them often before God, until at length 
the place of prayer shall become even to their 




' " OUR FATHER, WHO ART IN HEAVEN." 

young hearts the very gate of heaven. Level- 
ling and building up, bringing order out of con- 
fusion, making the crooked straight, and the rough 



THE SPIRIT'S WORK. 



77 



smooth, are not done by might nor by power, 
but by the Spirit of Almighty God. 

A more than herculean task is before us, and 
our success is all of grace, from foundation to 
top stone. Our work is not akin to that of 
the confused and disappointed Babelites. As 
the word of the Lord endures forever, so the 
work of the Spirit shall be consummated for 
glory. Let us, then, work out our salvation, 
while God works within us so effectually. 

In 1857 and 1858 great revivals in America 
gathered many thousands into our churches, and 
added much to our strength. The Holy Spirit's 
influences were most powerfully manifested 
among all classes, ages, and colors, like unto 
Pentecost. 

Would that the w small voice," and a rushing 
mighty wave of salvation, might come and sweep 
all over Smyrna, and all the vicinity, and the 
world ! Labor on, preach on, pray on, battle 
on, covered with the whole panoply, and God 
will crown you with good success, and with the 
glorious benediction at the end. 
, I soon must leave you, brethren, for Athens, 
Beyroot, Joppa, and Jerusalem. But if I see 



78 



TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 



you no more in the flesh, I hope to enjoy the in- 
fluence of your prayers, and at last to share all 
the blessings of heaven with you and the blood- 
washed in immortal glory. 

Let us make every sacrifice in our power, be 
cheerful and faithful in all our ministrations, till 
Jesus shall call us, one by one, to that rest pre- 
pared for God's people. Amen. Please sing, — 
to 

" Come, Holy Spirit, heavenly Dove, 
With all thy quickening powers, 
Come, shed abroad a Saviour's love, 
And that shall kindle ours." 




CHAPTER XII. 

LETTER : ATHENS. 



ANUABY 13. The roar of cannon, 
ringing of bells, bands of music, and 
shouts of the populace, ushered in 
this glorious morning. But what means all this 
general parade? Why, it is New Year's with the 
Greeks — their great holiday ! I have a double 
share of such this season — passing from the new 
into the- old style. At ten o'clock A. M., the 
people gathered in crowds at the St. Irene 
Chapel, while the king's guards and the military 
lined the sidewalks and the grand entrance to 
the chapel. All was silent for a moment. In 
came the archbishop and his subordinates. Gen- 
eral excitement now seized the people. Lo, all - 
were on tiptoe, and all eyes were turned to the 
royal door. Behold King Otho and the Queen 

79 




80 



TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 



of Greece ! In they came, arm in arm, walking, 
bowing, smiling, and took their stand on a tem- 
porary throne, in front of two big golden chairs, 
and there stood, during the whole service, for 
three quarters of an hour. How it would tire 
some of our dignitaries or fashionables to stand 
thus ! The Greeks seek no bodily ease in wor- 
ship. 

The reading, and singing, and crossing were 
much like the Koman service. The king was 
dressed in military uniform, and the noble queen 
in superb watered silk, adorned with gold lace, 
chains, and rich jewels. She is the ruler, the 
people say, and also quite intellectual, popular, 
and enterprising. 

After service in the chapel, the royal couple 
retired, amidst vociferous shouts and lively mu- 
sic, re-entered their courtly carriage, drawn by 
six richly caparisoned black horses, and returned 
to their fine palace. This is just east of the city, 
a half a mile off, in the midst of a large garden 
of fruit and flowers, with fine walks and bowers, 
skilfully laid with mosaic. 

In the afternoon I called at the palace, and 
viewed its internal arrangements and guests, 



ATHENS. 81 

and also the concomitant adornings and sur- 
roundings. I th'en called on Rev. Dr. King, the 
missionary, at his own splendid residence and 
chapel. He has done much for Greece, though 
he is still far from being satisfied. He is 
wealthy, lives in style, and "labors," he says, 
"to lay the foundation for future success." The 
converts, he says, are few — very few. He has 
formed no church yet. The Baptists have no 
church organization in Greece at present, and 
have only one remaining Greek convert there 
from ail our missions. This is brother Deme- 
trius Sackellarius, and he will start soon for 
America. 

The American consul (a Greek, by the way) 
says, " The Baptists did wisely in giving up their 
missions here, and recalling their missionaries, 
and there is little hope or chance to make cap- 
ital or Christians of Greek materials." (An 
outside view.) 

I have called on Professor Dickson, a Baptist 
of the first water ; and here I found, in fine quar- 
ters, in a room ample and comfortable for study 
and observation, our beloved old friend, Pro- 
fessor Hackett, D. D., prosecuting the study of 
6 



82 



TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 



modern Greek, and the revision of the New 
Testament, with great diligence and success. 
Brother Hackett has just returned from Phi- 
lippi, and is truly eloquent when speaking of the 
remains of this ancient city, the old gate, and 
the river where Lydia sat and heard Paul 
preach. He is also well convinced of the right- 
eousness of his cause, and the necessity of the 
Bible Union enterprise, into which he goes with 
all. his great heart. I often enjoyed his society 
and help, when he was at leisure, in visiting the 
towering Acropolis, Parthenon, Temples of Jupi- 
ter, Victory, and Theseus, the Stadium, Mars' 
Hill (where Paul once preached Christ and the 
resurrection), and many other places of note 
and interest. I also visited the rocky prison of 
Socrates, in a hill-side, and ran through the old 
Stadium. I stood, too, where Demosthenes de- 
livered his eloquent harangues and philippics to 
vast multitudes. The rostrum is large, and in 
usual form, made in bold relief, some eight 
feet high, ten deep, and twelve wide, by dig- 
ging back into the brow of the hill for a back 
gallery, excavating the rock on three sides, leav- 
ing steps, seats, table, all solid. Here is the 



ATHENS. 



83 



stand-point for the speaker, commanding with 
his voice thirty or forty thousand hearers, while 
catching with his eye the inspiring views of hills 
and mountains, valleys and bays, Brook Ilissus, 
sea and land, city and country, nature and art. 
How sublime ! Nay, it is all grand beyond de- 
scription, and very inspiring. 

The hills round about are numerous and high, 
especially the Hymettus, and mostly of lime- 
stone or marble. The ruins are very wide- 
spread, and awfully gigantic. Men have delight- 
ed in destroying each other and their respective 
works, and then of carving their own victories 
on stone in bass-relief, as now seen among the 
splendid ruins, and showing what Greece once 
was, in her palmy days, in arts, science, and 
success, as well as in the field of battle. But 
she has come down wonderfully ! Thus passes 
away the . glory of the world ! 

The present city of Athens is newly built, ex- 
cept a little portion in the southern part, and is 
constructed well for use, comfort, and beauty. 
It contains now some forty thousand inhabitants, 
most of whom have come in within fifty years. 
Wonderful increase and progress ! Modern Ath- 



84 



TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 



ens is far in advance of any city of the Orient, 
or east of France, in all respects except in reli- 
gion, and is fast increasing in arts, science ; lit- 
erature, commerce, and manufactures. 

On Lord's day, the 16th instant, we had a 
Baptist covenant and preaching meeting at the 
house of brother Dickson, where, by previous 
request, I preached to an interested and select 
audience, and, with the aid of Dr. Hackett, ad- 
ministered the Lord's Supper to seven happy 
commemorators. We had a precious melting 
season, the first of the kind enjoyed by Athe- 
nian Christians for seven years. It was truly an 
oasis in a moral lonely desert. 

In the afternoon we dined at brother Dick- 
son's, then heard Dr. Hill (Episcopalian) preach 
on prayer, very happily and eloquently, though 
in Greek. In the evening I preached in Dr. 
King's house to a mixed audience of Americans, 
Englishmen, Norwegians, and Greeks. 

Brother; Demetrius Saekellarius, a Greek bap- 
tized by brother Buel, is possessed of piety and 
talent of great promise. He is skilled in Greek, 
ancient and modern, and has a good smattering 
of English. He wishes to get over to America, 



ATHENS. 



85 



to perfect himself in our language. As he 
desires to proclaim the gospel, and needs help, 
I wish him a place in the Bible Union Eooms in 
New York. 

On the 18th instant the Greeks had a great 
day in the Bay of Piraeus, the port of Athens. 
Some five thousand people, priests, soldiers, and 
private citizens, vied with each other to gain the 
sea-shore, to witness or participate in the im- 
mersion of the cross. This was performed in 
our presence with great pomp, many priests and 
people taking a great interest in this supersti- 
tion. After the baptism of the cross, a number 
of men, almost naked, plunged into the conse- 
crated waters of the Archipelago. 

The whole region abounds with small monas- 
teries, supplied with oil and tapers for private 
worshippers, on the hills and in the valleys. 

This city is a profitable school for the Chris- 
tian or the scholar. O, I bless God for these 
opportunities, and for grace to consecrate all to 
his glory. 

I expect soon to return to Smyrna, and go, 
via Cyprus, — Paul's route, — to Palestine. 



CHAPTER XIII. 



SERMON (IN ATHENS) : CONSTRAINING LOVE. 
" For the love of Christ constraineth us." — 2 Cor. v. 14. 

Y dear brethren, assembled for the wor- 
ship of God in this noted ancient city, 
I was truly glad when I received your 
kind invitation, through Dr. Hackett, to preach 
to you, and also to administer the Lord's Sup- 
per. Heavenly associations now rush powerfully 
upon my mind, from eighteen hundred years 
past, and also the anticipations of the future. 
I behold in our number this morning Professor 
Hackett, D. D., of America; brother Dickson, 
formerly of Corfu ; brother Demetrius Sackella- 
rius, the only remaining Greek convert of our 
Baptist missions, immersed by brother Buel ; 
and live other brethren in the Lord. How small 

86 




CONSTRAINING LOVE. 



87 



but choice is this little band of Americans, Eng- 
lishmen, Norwegians, and Greeks ! By sov- 
ereign grace, we have our positions and our 
power. 

There the apostle Paul stood, on Mars' HiM, 
just out south of the city ; looked all over the 
bay of Piraeus, the Acropolis, the temples, the 
Stadium, Mount Pentelicus, and Mount Hymet- 
tus ; and preached, to the ancient and supersti- 
tious Athenians, Christ and the resurrection. 
I was delighted, a few days ago, in visiting that 
memorable Mars' Hill, in company with brother 
Hackett, to go up the old, steep steps, to sit in 
the Areopagus, to behold the classic surround- 
ings, and to read Paul's old sermon. 

Truly we have shared a rich w feast of reason 
and flow of soul" in visiting Athens. I trust 
we are enjoying only the spiritual earnest of a 
more glorious but not distant future. 

To-day is a most memorable day, especially 
with some of you, my brethren, as you are to 
celebrate the Lord's Supper for the first time in 
seven long years. May the Lord prepare us for 
the great and solemn occasion ! 

The love of Christ constrains us. This love 



88 



TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 



is the motive power of heaven, and the control- 
ling power of all Christians. It is co-existent 




and co-extensive with Christianity, and all true 
reformation on earth. "Love fulfils the law." 
Christ's love is manifested in creation, provi- 



CONSTRAINING LOVE. 



89 



dence, revelation, redemption, salvation, sancti- 
fication, and glorification. How infinite ! This 
love is great — converting, wonderful, adapting, 
almighty, abiding, everlasting. 

All heaven is full of love, and its moving 
power. God himself is love ; and Christ is the 
brightness of his Father's glory, and the express 
image of his person. Angels are governed by 
this vital principle in all their acts and ministra- 
tions. Christians of divers names are character- 
ized by its divine attributes in all their conquests 
for Jesus — in all their graces and glory. This 
is our Alpha and Omega. 

The constraining love of Christ contains all 
the elements of godly action, enterprise, success, 
victory, happiness, and heaven. How futile, 
then, for good, are all other powers ! 

Let us sever all the bonds of sin, the flesh, 
and the world, and give ourselves up to the 
reigning power of love in all things. Let us 
be faithful and prayerful to the end, and by rich 
grace Christ will gather us into heaven above. 
Let us now commemorate the Lord's Supper. 



CHAPTER XIV. 



LETTER : BEYIiOOT VIA PAUL'S ROUTE. 



EBRUARY 1. I left Athens, as I 
expected to do when I last wrote 
you. On our way we stopped at 
Scio, one of the most fertile islands in the archi- 
pelago. Then Mytilene ranges next in produc- 
tiveness. 

This part of the Mediterranean Sea is full of 
small islands, mostly barren, rocky, of a whitish 
color, and not one in a hundred has any beacon 
light ; yet scarcely a shipwreck occurs, or any 
serious accident, though the sailing is mostly 
done by night. And why is this ? Because the 
pilots and other officers are so temperate and 
watchful, and are made liable for any damage by 
carelessness. They must prove their own faith- 
fulness. 

90 




BEYROOT VIA PAUL'S ROUTE. 



91 



On the Lord's day after I left Athens, I was 
again at Smyrna, and heard the Congregational 
and Episcopal preachers. In the evening, in 
Rev. Mr. Dodd's house, I preached to a very 
select audience of many different nations. I 
soon left in a French steamer, and, on the 26th 
of January, passed out by the islands Samos, 




DAMASCUS. 



Ehodes, Cyprus, and many others, and even saw 
Mount Taurus, in Asia Minor, high, command- 
ing, beautiful. So we stopped at Messena, the 
seaport Tarsus, and cast our eyes over the birth- 
place of Paul. We took in cargo generally by 
day, and steamed on by night ; but I took turns 
with a travelling friend, and kept a good watch 



92 



TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 



for the sights. This is a picturesque and inter- 
esting country, well worth visiting. Latakia, 
— called anciently "Laodicea," — they say, pre- 
sents many interesting ruins, but has lately been 
much improved. This was once a grand and 
notable city. It is now the port of Antioch, 
once noted for the Christian name, but now for 
its exports of tobacco and fine sponge. 

Tripoli manufactures silk, and, like most cities 
along shore, is fast improving. 

Beyroot is an enterprising, beautiful mission- 
ary city, of some forty thousand population. 
This is the chief seaport, outlet and inlet, for 
the great city of Damascus, and a large extent 
of back country. This port is a fine one. The 
city is wide-spread, undulating, beautifully varie- 
gated with fine buildings, gardens, orange trees, 
and mulberries. Here is the general centre of 
the American missions in Syria. 

I met brethren Herter, Bliss, Ford, Calhoun, 
and half a dozen others of the missionaries, and 
dined with them. Yea, I was a bearer to them 
of two pairs of donkey saddle-bags from Smyrna, 
for the ladies' use in distributing books on their 
missionary tours. 



BEYHOOT YIA PAUL'S EOUTE. 



93 



All the enterprise and religious influence 
comes in, or is chiefly sustained, from America. 
The people are improving every way. 

Antioch and the Lebanon mountains show now 
their snow-capped summits. When we sail I 
shall sit up all night to see Sidon, that old, 




SIDON. 



old city, once so famous and cultivated, but now 
weak and decayed, though beautiful for situation ; 
Tyre, whose greatness and glory, and even its 
walls, God, by his judgment, so fully overthrew ; 
and other marked places along shore, on my way 
to Joppa. 



94 



TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 



The Pasha of Damascus, with his numerous 
wives and servants, has here joined our ship's 
company. They are going to old Egypt. 

O, the curse of Jehovah seems to rest on all 
this sinful region. What can be done ? Some- 
thing has been accomplished, yet it is but as 
dust in the balance. The people seem to have 
little or no conscience. In America, hard as 
sinners are, one sermon will do, apparently, as 
much as fifty here. But I must leave. So 
good by. 



CHAPTER XV. 



FROM JOPPA TO JERUSALEM, 



EBRUARY 13. After leaving Beyroot, 
we took observations by the way, and 
arrived at Joppa, Palestine, on the 4th 
of February, as Ave had contemplated. Blessed 
sights and thoughts all the way. 

Joppa is a walled city, the nearest seaport to 
Jerusalem, situated on a high bluff, and contains 
about ten thousand people. It has no harbor, 
and is all rock-bound — a dangerous place for 
ships in a storm. We usually anchor, in fair 
weather, a mile or two out in the bay, and so 
communicate with the shore by other water-craft. 
This is an old and somewhat dilapidated place, 
but it is improving, and does considerable busi- 
ness. Here Jonah embarked for Tarshish, and 
Peter had a vision on evangelism. The whole 

95 




96 



TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 



city stands high, and on a rocky foundation, and 
is beautifully lined on the south and east with 
gardens, orange orchards, and other trees. 

We visited our mission, also the places noted 
as the old home of Dorcas, and the remains of 
Simon's old tannery. Truly we saw many cor- 
roborating facts and signs in the large stone vat 
and the numerous graduated tanning-kettles near 
by, placed in due order for the business. Shall 
the voice of the people be credited? 

We left Joppa for Jerusalem, in company with 
some experienced travellers, on horseback. Our 
first ride was through the rich, fruitful, farming 
valley of the famous Sharon, till we arrived at 
the village of Ramleh, the birthplace of Joseph, 
where we lodged in the Roman Catholic Convent, 
and so fared well every way. The Lord reward 
them ! 

This lodge is the centre of a large and pro- 
ductive grain valley, and some two miles from 
Ludd, or Lydda, where Peter cured the paralytic. 
All ready we started at seven o'clock next morn- 
ing, with our attendant muleteers and equipage for 
the Holy City. So we rode through ravines, over 
the undulations, up hill and down hill, over slip- 



FROM JOPPA TO JERUSALEM. 



97 



pery rocks, ugly roU gh places, indescribable gul- 
lies, and sharp pitches, till we crossed the great 
mountain range, four miles west of Jerusalem. 
Tired, lame, and badly worn, on beholding, in 
the distance, the great dome, the high tower, 
and the numerous pinnacles in Jerusalem, we 




JERUSALEM. 



forgot it all for the moment, thanked God, and 
gloried in the holy sight. 

At four o'clock P. M. we arrived at the beloved 
city, entered Jaffa Gate, at the Tower of Da- 
vid, on the Street of David, and rode, and 
walked, and slid along ; for my horse slipped so 
7 



98 



TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 



badly on the smooth pavements, and I was too 
much -crippled to ride safely. Here we stopped 
at the Mediterranean Hotel, kept by a noble 
Greek, speaking English. Here, at last, weary, 
chafed, thirsty, with bones aching, I felt to re- 
joice, and to bless God for his grace. 

It may seem strange, — but so it is, — after 
resting a while at the inn, I took board and 
lodgings at the Latin convent, Casa Nuova 
— a house for strangers, and purely Soman 
Catholic. . The house is large, and six stories 
high, made of stone. I have a good room, cot- 
ton bed, and an iron bedstead. Our table fare 
is good Italian, and the monks wait on us 
with every degree "of kindness. 

Truly I fare well in this wailed city, in a 
Komish monastery ; but I use the white veil 
only nights — against the musical mosquitos. 

Since my arrival, I have often met with Dr. 
Barcley and family, who were once my hearers 
in Washington, D. C, and with Elder Jones, an 
old friend from Pennsylvania. They are here as 
missionaries, and both are studying Arabic, and 
preaching too, laying, as they think, a foundation 
for future success and a copious harvest. 



CHAPTER XVI. 



SERMON (IN JERUSALEM) : MOUNT ZION'S GLORY. 

" For I am not ashamed of the gospel ; for it is the power of 
God unto salvation to every one that believes, to the Jew first, 
and also to the Greek." — Rom. i. 16. 

EN and brethren, children of the living 
God, it gives me great pleasure to 
meet you on this consecrated spot, on 
Mount Zion, in the city of Jerusalem. When I 
arose this fine morning, I seemed to awake from 
a dream, and looked with wonder upon the Holy 
City, so beautiful for situation, and made the 
joy of the whole earth. Glorious Lord's day ! 
What association from events of many thousands 
of years fills my mind and overflows my soul ! 

I feel unworthy of these unspeakable priv- 
ileges. Let us praise Jehovah for his wonderful 

99 




100 



TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 



works for the children of men ; yea, for our 
eternal salvation. I behold on the west the 
great Mount Lebanon range ; on the north, the 
mountains of Gilboa; on the east, the Mount 
of Olives, the banks of the Jordan, the Dead 
Sea, and Mount Pisgah; and* on the south, the 
Convent of Elias, city of Bethlehem, and Hebron. 
What a central stand-point ! What a focal point 
of interest, of observation, and of radiating in- 
telligence ! The panorama of six thousand years 
looms up before me, as by a reflecting, burning 
mirror. O, the cross, the bloody cross, is the 
great elevating, drawing, radiating power ! Here 
we come like pilgrims to see, to read, to reflect, 
to feel, to renew our vows, to increase our powd- 
er, to grow in grace, and to secure an increase of 
the apostolic inspiration for glorifying God and 
saving souls. May we be endued with power 
from on high, as they were on the memorable 
day of Pentecost. 

I observe here brethren Jones, and Bettinger,. 
and Purington, and many others from America, 
and also a representation from all parts of Chris- 
tendom. I am truly glad to meet with you, dear 
friends, under these auspicious circumstances, 



_ MOUNT ZION'S GLORY. 



101 



and to fraternize with you in the worship of God, 
and in preaching the gospel for the salvation of 
sinners. 

Here the great commission was proclaimed, 
" Go ye into all the world, and preach the gos- 
pel to every creature." So the disciples were 
endued with divine power, and went forth, as 
they were divinely bidden, and success followed 
them. 

The sacred text is a bold, and hearty, and 
godly confession of the apostle Paul. He tes- 
tifies, thus positively and clearly, by letters, by 
words, and by deeds. This, too, is the univer- 
sal testimony and vital principle of all true 
Christians, from John the Baptist down to the 
present moment : they stand up for Jesus. 

We have good and cogent reasons for assert- 
ing the text, and evincing it in our lives. 

The gospel is of the highest origin — it is a 
revelation from God, from heaven, from eternity, 
by Jesus Christ, and through the Holy Spirit, 
and it is all-worthy of the source from which it 
came. God forbid that I should glory, save in 
the cross of our Lord Jesus Christ! Glorious 
religion ! 



102 



TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 



Life and immortality are brought to light by 
the gospel. Here we see light in Christ's light, 
and behold as in a glass the glory of God, and 
are changed into the same image from glory to 
glory by the Holy Spirit. What an internal and 
external mirror ! 

The gospel brings us peace like a river, and 
righteousness like the waves of the sea. O, 
what sweet peace I have enjoyed in Christ since 
I first believed ! Yea, what joy I have had in 
preaching this gospel in all parts of Christen- 
dom ! Yea, glory be to God for more than 
thirty thousand converts, in numerous revivals, 
who have professed conversion under our preach- 
ing. What has God wrought ! 

Salvation is commensurate and runs parallel 
with the knowledge and power of the good 
news. The preaching of Christ was as life from 
the dead. The law and the prophets were until 
John ; since then the kingdom of God is pro- 
claimed. -A new dispensation is now begun. 
God can be just, and also the justifier of all who 
believe in Jesus. He who believes and is bap- 
tized shall be saved. 

The gospel is the sharp, two-edged sword, of 



MOUNT ZION'S GLORY. 



103 



old Jerusalem blade and of heavenly temper, 
which never bends, nor breaks, nor reacts 
against the Christian soldier, but does glorious 
execution to the hilt, slaying and making alive 
by millions. God — Father, Son, and Holy 
Spirit, in Trinity — speaks, and it is done. A 
threefold cord is not easily broken, and this 
union and power are invincible — mighty ! Gos- 
pel power is the source of regeneration, as we 
are begotten by his word to be his first fruits. 
O, sanctify us by thy truth — thy word is truth. 

Here is the secret spring and motive power 
of true reformation, civilization, evangelization, 
and glorification. Behold the power and revival 
at Pentecost, the general spread of Christianity 
through the whole Roman empire, the great 
reformation in the days of Martin Luther, the 
glorious awakening in the times of Whitefield, 
Wesley, and Edwards, or in more modern times 
under Finney, Knapp, Spurgeon, Earle, and 
others of. revival fame ! To God be all the 
praise ! 

The gospel is our panoply, living, lever, axe, 
tope, prose, and poetry. It is the harbinger 
and the song of the millennium ; yea, our glory 



104 TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 



in the battle of life, and our triumph in death, 
and our shout in glory ! How, then, can we be 
ashamed of the law or the gospel? What doc- 
trines, precepts, and fruits are here combined ! 
See what Christianity has done for mankind in 
elevating man and woman ! See what our moth- 
ers, sisters, and ourselves would have been with- 
out the precious gospel ! Look, then, to the 
blessed effects wherever it is preached and re- 
ceived. Who, then, can be ashamed of the gos- 
pel? No one who has ever enjoyed its power* 
Ashamed of the gospel! Just as soon let mid- 
night be ashamed of noon, or, sooner far, let 
evening blush to own a star. 

O, my brethren, let us, while we stand by the 
tomb of the Saviour, and look upon Mount Cal- 
vary, and survey the Mount of Olives, conse- 
crate ourselves anew to Christ and his cause. 
Let us thank God, and take courage. Put on 
the whole panoply, and go up to possess the 
land. Soon the kingdoms of the world shall be- 
come the kingdoms of Christ. The banner of 
the gospel shall soon be unfurted on land and 
sea, proclaiming liberty of conscience and free- 
dom in Christ, and all the wide, wide world 



MOUNT ZION'S GLORY. 



105 



shall be filled with the gospel of the glory of 
God. So let it be ! 

Then shall the New Jerusalem be seen de- 
scending from God out of heavefi, and the meek 
shall possess the whole earth. So there shall be 
a new heaven and a new earth, in which dwells 
righteousness. 

Here is hope and encouragement for us all, 
amidst all the conflicting signs of the times. 

But, my friends, I must thank you for your 
attention and kindness under God, and ask your 
prayers. I shall be glad to meet you on gospel 
ground anywhere, and under heavenly auspices, 
wherever good Providence may permit. Amen. 

Finally, brethren, farewell. 

" With mind and heart I love the Lord, 
The brethren, prayer, and holy word, 
His Spirit and my soul attest, 
Till mighty grace shall give me rest." 



CHAPTER XVII. 



LETTER : A WALK ABOUT ZION. 



AST Lord's day I preached from Rom. 
i. 16, on Zion's Hill, to a few brethren, 
and administered the Lord's Supper. 
How few are the witnesses for Jesus ! The 
number of real converts to pure Christianity 
here is yet very small. Quite a list of names 
have professed, and kept up some forms, but 
vital experience and gospel practice are but little 
known in the city. 

Jerusalem is really a very wicked city, cursed 
of God. Yet we see a star of hope. There are 
some good ministers and Christians even here ; 
yea, missions, Sunday schools, and prayer meet- 
ings. 

Physical^ the city is fast improving, and as- 
suming a far better aspect. The Knights Tem- 

106 




A WALK ABOUT ZION. 



107 



plars of Austria are now erecting a magnificent 
house on Mount Acre, for entertainment and for 
clubs, called the "Austrian Hospice;" and they 
are introducing carriages and other improve- 
ments. The Jews, and also the Greeks, are 
buying up all the real estate they can, inside and 
out; and Mr. Montifore, a rich Jew, has built a 
great windmill, and many houses for poor Jews, 
outside of the city walls, thus competing for the 
mastery. But what is prosperity in wealth or in 
sin? Its pleasures are short. 

Thousands and tens of thousands of pilgrims 
visit here, and other sacred places, yearly, and 
often gather in multitudes, and stay for weeks, 
and even months. To sell them relics and trin- 
kets is a great and profitable business. Then, 
too, much meat and bread, and other articles, 
are required to meet the daily wants of so many. 
A standing army, too, of hundreds, and some- 
times of thousands, is kept here, to preserve 
order and peace between the citizens and the for- 
eigners. But, despite all, there is occasionally a 
little fight for nationalities between Turks, Jews, 
and Greeks, or some others. 

They have here almost all kinds of religions, 



108 



TKAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 



and shades of doctrine, representing the whole 
world. Here idolatry, popery, heresy, error, 
ignorance, gross crimes, beastly vices, and cruel 
delusions run riot. How marvellous that God 
should bear for a single day with such a wicked 
people ! But what of us, and the rest of the 
wide world? The Lord is s;ood. 




STREET IN JERUSALEM. 

The city is now healthy, having a population 
of some thirty or forty thousand, and at times 
thousands of visitors. Property is rising in 
money value, and the cost of living has greatly 



A WALK ABOUT ZION. 



109 



increased. Since the Crimean war, prices have 
gone up wonderfully. Besides, the civilized 
nations seem anxious for a hold and a repre- 
sentation here. 

I have walked through and around the city ; 
surveyed her streets, many of which are of 
great' interest; and marked and counted the 
stones in her walls. Some were forty feet long, 
three and a half thick by four and a half wide, 
on the eastern side of the old Temple. I have 
been much blessed by sights and associations. 
The walls generally are in as good architectural 
style as ours in America, and in good repair, 
with massive gates, well hung. 

The tomb of the Saviour is on Zion's Hill, and 
now covered by the great dome or tabernacle, of 
immense size, called the Church of the Holy 
Sepulchre, or of the Eesurrection. Divers na- 
tions vie in honoring it by their costly forms, but 
all in vain. 

I can just see the bushy margin of the River 
Jordan, and the smooth surface of the Dead Sea, 
from the city heights, and shall soon visit them. 
I must soon go to Bethlehem, too, and to Solo- 
mon's Pools, and then write you more descrip- 



110 



TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 



tively of these and other remarkable places and 
things (D.V.). 

I am highly privileged here by the kindnesses 
of Dr. Barcley, Elder Jones, and their fami- 
lies. Truly the Lord provides, and makes all 
things work for good to the righteous. 

Farewell. 



CHAPTER XVIII. 



LETTER I WONDERS OF JERUSALEM. 



HIS city is truly "beautiful for situa- 
tion," and destined to be the "joy of 
the whole earth." She stands on hills, 
upon the eastern slope of the great ridge, and 
overlooks the valleys, plains, rivers, brooks, 
pools, ravines, battle-grounds, cemeteries, bap- 
tisteries, monuments, the Dead Sea, Mount of 
Olives, and the high mountain ranges all around. 
In a wet time the valleys are ponds, and the 
brooks powerful rivers. Pools are numerous, 
and many of them quite large ; some are of liv- 
ing water, but most of them are artificial tanks 
or cisterns, filled with rain or snow water from 
various elevations. There is water enough in 
Jerusalem, — saying nothing of the abundance 
of it in the vicinity, — at all seasons of the year, 

111 




112 



TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 



except iii the dry est time, for immersing the 
whole world, as fast as they might believe anu 
come. There is no want where there is a godly 
will. 

Dr. Barcley has recently immersed some forty 
candidates in the Virgin Pools, or the Pool of 
Siloam, which spring from under Mount Moriah. 

Wonderful things are here known and en- 
joyed. I have not only walked around and 
through Jerusalem, but I have actually been 
under it. There is a cave, with an entrance on 
the north side, near Damascus Gate, about a 
quarter of a mile in extent, supposed to be the 
old quarry which furnished the marble for the 
Temple and its walls. It is beautiful and grand 
as seen by torch-light. Dr. Barcley fortunately 
discovered it a few years since, for the cave's 
mouth had for a long time been hidden by rub- 
bish. 

The tombs of the kings are situated just north 
of the city, and are carved out of solid marble 
rock. Some fifty of these are easily recognized, 
and most of them are arranged side by side ; but 
in some instances they are also deposited in 
vaults one story below the other. All the ex- 



WONDERS OF JERUSALEM. 



113 



cavations are in solid limestone. What an 
amount of labor and skill ! 

A very large bath, or cistern of water, is close 
by, as you will generally find contiguous to every 
important burying-place. This is pure taste, as 
immersion is, to a believer, a celebration of his 
faith and hope in Christ, and in the resurrection 
of- the dead. 




POOL OF SILOAM. 



Let us look a little more about Jerusalem. 
Behold Mount Calvary; the Mount of Olives, 
two hundred feet higher; Bethphage and Beth- 
any ; Hill of Evil Council ; the remarkable Field 
of Blood; Garden of Gethsemane; Valleys of 
8 



114 TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 



Hinuom and of Jehoshaphat; graveyards and 
monuments ; Pools of the Virgin and of Siloam ; 
and other objects of interest, besides the Tem- 
ple or Mosque of Omar, churches, pinnacles, 
towers, tombs, and sacred views within the city. 
This consecrated spot really excels all others in 
history in importance, in fame, in influence, sub- 
limity, and beauty — the central point of the 
Christian religion, and the sunlight of the whole 
world. Behold the Lamb of God, and glory in 
the cross ! God selected this place, and will 
crown it with effulgent glory. It is physically, 
and morally, and spiritually sublime. To be 
sure the carnal mind cannot so discern it, in its 
present low state ; but the spiritual can see it, 
for they w see light in Christ's light." 

A part of the city is now in ruins, and is 
yearly ploughed. Many live in basements, and 
dens of misery. Vice, leprosy, poverty, and de- 
struction revel there ; infidelity, popery, and 
idolatry disgrace and destroy immortal souls ; 
but in Christ is a glass, a brighter day — the 
New Jerusalem of God. 



CHAPTER XIX. 



letter: calvary and holy places. 

HE common people, in the city and 
country, seem to have little or no 
conscience, or it may be that I am 
wanting in perception, but I am fully persuaded 
that there is little done, adapted to the low con- 
dition of Jerusalem sinners. There are a few 
good missionaries in this field, and God blesses 
them. 

O, what a place this is for pilgrims ! It is 
now a great time for them, and so it will be for 
months to come. Soon as the weather gets 
warm enough, and the prescribed time comes, 
they will go by thousands to the River Jordan 
to be immersed at the Pilgrim's Ford. They 
furnish their own " safe conduct," while we, who 
go in small numbers, are obliged to pay four or 

115 




116 TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS • 



five dollars each to be guided and guarded safely 
through the Bedouin tribes, or wandering Isli- 
maelites. We pay and go safely. 

The weather is now fine, balmy, and reviving 
to us all, and to grass, flowers, and fruits. The 
people generally seem healthy. The water is all 
impregnated with limestone. We find nice pet- 
rifactions of all kinds, in great abundance. 
Olives, grapes, figs, dates, oranges, lemons, and 
many other fruits abound. Garden vegetables 
are plenty, except potatoes. Thorn-grass is used 
for fuel to burn lime and brick. The stones 
worn so in our paths or in the streets are ex- 
ceedingly and: often dangerously slippery. Ta- 
ble living is generally poor, though I fare 'well. 
No potatoes are to be had, unless they come 
from Austria. The people are glad to get the 
milk of cows, goats, sheep, and even asses. 
We have no apples and no good cheese, except 
from Germany. Wood and charcoal are scarce, 
and, like fruit and food, are sold by weight. 
Women carry all such to market on their heads, 
going in long trains, with nimble steps, for many 
miles. 

The cisterns and pools are nearly all dry, and 



CALVARY AND HOLY PLACES. 117 

the people are fearing a drought and famine. 
Little rain or snow has come to fill the tanks, 
or fit the fields for crops. Signs are now poor. 

The Turks venerate the magnificent mosque of 
Omar, with its great dome, high and splendid 
proportions, and rich embellishments, while the 
Jews on the western side wail, and even kiss 
the stone walls of the old Temple of Solomon. 

Yesterday I visited again the Church of the 
Eesurrection, or Holy Sepulchre. It is a grand, 
imposing, costly, spacious, complicated super- 
structure on Zion's Hill, or Mount Calvary, em- 
bracing and surmounting the reputed tomb and 
sepulchre of Jesus Christ. I was awe-struck at 
beholding the mighty, multiplied exhibitions ! 
After composing myself, I walked, or rather 
crept, through the low door into the room or 
vault, hewn from solid stone, containing the sar- 
cophagus or tomb of the Saviour, all covered by 
the great dome of the Holy Sepulchre. You see 
on your right, as you enter the sacred room, a 
beautiful white marble rock, deeply excavated, in 
which they say positively our Lord was buried. 
Let it be so ; I know of no evidence to the con- 
trary, or of any rivals. 



118 TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 



The guards generally require visitors to go in 
barefoot on their sacred stone floor ; but I did 
not stop for that part of the ceremony, and 
passed in. When I came out I was filled with 
wonder and contemplation. O, what memorials, 
relics of the past, formal pretensions, and signs 
of the future ! But God will make even the 
wrath of man to praise him, and all things to 
work well for the righteous, and he will restrain 
the remainder. My present lodging at the Cath- 
olic Hospice is but a few rods south of the Holy 
Sepulchre, on Zion's Hill. 




CHAPTER XX. 

LETTER : BETHLEHEM. 



EBRUARY 20. Here is the glorious 
spot where our Saviour was born — 
there is no doubt of it. I had long 
desired to see it with my own eyes, and the gra- 
cious Lord has granted me the privilege. 

This beautiful morning I started from Jerusa- 
lem on the foot path, — as we have no carriage 
roads, — and soon fell into company with an Ara- 
bian woman, who talked, pointed out places, and 
pleasantly conducted me by the Potter's Field, 
the Greek Convent of Elias, the Tomb of Ra- 
chel, David's Well, and so on, seven miles, to 
the famous city of Bethlehem. This woman 
begged for "backsheesh," or a present; but 
as, in return, I asked her for one, she soon 

119 




120 TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 



turned away, with a farewell smile. We had 
talked all the way in Arabic. 

This city covers a pair of united hills, in beau- 
tiful range and proportions, quite elevated, and 
conspicuous for miles, surrounded with splendid 
terraces on the steep sides, well nigh to their 




BETHLEHEM. 

oval summits, and farther off by the shepherds' 
plains and valleys. The towering terraces rise 
in order, like steps, with white marble edges; 
and each plateau is covered with gardens, or- 
chards, or houses. Twin hills, to beauty born ! 



BETHLEHEM. 



121 



Behold the shepherds now, the sheep, the goats, 
the cattle, and the fowls ! See the olives, figs, 
and grapes, in great abundance, adorning this 
natural and historic gem ! Praise the Lord ! 

The Catholic convent here is of vast propor- 
tions, and covers the reputed spot of Christ's 
nativity. Here the monks cite you to the bright 
spot, in an upper room on the hill-side, on the 
stone floor, covered with a large silver star three 
feet in diameter, amid burning candles, costly 
devices, and historic exhibitions. Truly here 
is light that displays art, and makes darkness 
visible ! Despite the superstition hung around 
the Saviour's birthplace, truth looms up to our 
view, and our souls are refreshed by the heav- 
enly associations. A beautiful marble statuette 
of the Babe of Bethlehem reposes on a white 
marble couch, in the same room, close by the 
star. Let us look, ponder, and improve. Now 
we will walk out of the "inn," and survey the 
outer court or yard. Here we find the place 
where horses, mules, donkeys, and their keepers 
eat and lodge, on the straw and ground. The 
manger is a place on which to eat. Christ was 
born, and pradled, and attended here, by wise 



122 



TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 



men and angels, in the uncovered yard, where 
both the poor and the brutes recline and eat. 
Such places and customs here are now common. 
The grain and straw are put on the ground, while 
the animal is tied by his leg to a short hub, or 
left at liberty. The attendants often sleep in 
the same enclosure, on or in the strawy manger, 
with their faces turned to the wall. No wonder 
if now they have really housed Christ's birth- 
spot ! I feel well repaid for my visit, and al- 
ways feel solemn, reverential, and revived at 
each reviewal of the scene. O that men were 
all sanctified by the truth, and would glory only 
in the cross ! 

Bethlehem and vicinity are picturesque, fertile, 
and full of interest. The weather now is like 
our May. The washerwomen on the south side 
of the city take water from the pottery canal, 
coming from Solomon's Pools, and are lively at 
their work in the open air, and look healthy. 

By the polite invitation of the attending 
monks, I sat at a sumptuous table, and enjoyed 
a good dinner, before leaving, in a room adjoin- 
ing where Christ is said to have been born. O, 
hallowed associations ! No wonder that tens of 



BETHLEHEM. 



123 



thousands visit this memorable spot every year, 
and at whatever expense and hazard ! But I 
must soon leave, and say farewell. 

I expect to remain in Palestine two weeks 
longer, and then go to Geneva, and down the 
Rhine. 



CHAPTER XXI. 



letter: condition and prospects of the 
holy city. 

GKEEABLY to promise, I write you 
again from the Holy City. Here I am 
enjoying the hospitality of Elder 
William M. Jones, on Mount Acre, in the north- 
ern part of the city, on a beautiful hill. Brother 
Jones is a worthy missionary, from the Seventh 
Day Baptists, and an old friend of ours from 
Pennsylvania. He is very industrious in preach- 
ing, teaching, and working; but his excellent 
wife and accomplished daughter add much to 
his comfort and efficiency. How refreshing to 
share with such friends in a foreign and weary 
land ! Truly they sacrifice much among a peo- 

124 




CONDITION AND PROSPECTS OF JERUSALEM. 125 

pie so hard, ignorant, and foreign ; but God's 
grace is 'amply sufficient for them. 

Brother Jones has recently immersed a con- 
verted Greek (and there is water enough, al- 
ways), who has since been severely persecuted 
and violently beaten for his new religion ; but 
he stands up boldly for Jesus yet. 

Everything seems new and refreshing here, 
however old, no matter how often we pass in 
review. 

The city is about half a mile square, or irregu- 
lar, with strong, high walls, from fifty to seventy- 
five feet from the foundations, and has four gates 
now in use — Jaffa, Golden, Herod's, and St. 
Stephen's. I have walked around the city, un- 
der it, over it, and on its walls. By the way, 
you cannot climb up from the outside, but 
must walk up by steps on the inside, if you 
would mount the walls of Zion, see her un- 
told glories, and be protected by her strong, 
high bulwarks, in your daily walks. Just so 
in the kingdom of Christ : we may go in, and 
up, and around, and rejoice within, and on her 
battlements. 

The Austrian knights are yet hard at work on 



126 TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 

their magnificent hospice, for the accommoda- 
tions of rich clubs and hundreds of guests. 
They have introduced, through St. Stephen's 
Gate, the only two-horse carts that have yet en- 
tered the city. No carriages are used in the 
regions around. 

The Kussians and the French here hold some 
real estate, and have some grand designs on foot, 
and other nations look to Jerusalem as a focal, 
radiating point — a central rendezvous for the 
whole wide world. 

The Turks seem already crestfallen at the 
sight of their prospects. The so-called Chris- 
tians — Arminians or Greeks — are fast getting 
the ascendency. Rents, labor, and living have 
risen fourfold in price within a few years. 
The streets are rough, dark, narrow, filthy, and 
slippery. How stupid and indolent, too, are 
most of the citizens ! They sit cross-legged, 
smoke tobacco, eat the coarsest of food, and 
sleep almost anywhere in their clothes. 

Men and women of the Turks, Greeks, and 
Jews are here much alike in their personal hab- 
its, and about equal in numbers. 

As to crime against person or property, good 



CONDITION AND PROSPECTS OF JERUSALEM. 127 

judges say they are more safe here than in New 
York. 

Rev. W. Smith, of Philadelphia, Pa., showed 
his good sense and Christian courage here in 
travelling alone, or with only a muleteer as a 
guide. Falsehood, guilt, and cowardice, verily, 
may cry and blush, but I have yet to see cause 
for fear or extra caution while travelling in 
Syria, or in Palestine or elsewhere, for the last 
four months. 

The whole region is now quiet and slothful, 
rather than warlike. The Dickson family mur- 
der and rapine, near Joppa, was a most horrible 
affair. The father and a married son were killed 
outright ; the mother and daughter suffered se- 
verely. But such instances are few. Four of the 
guilty culprits are now in prison, awaiting death, 
and the fifth — the principal in the bloody, ter- 
rible crime — is searched for by detectives, and 
all must soon suffer condign punishment. The 
stolen property has mostly been restored to the 
poor, insulted, enfeebled, bereaved, widowed 
mother and daughter, all through the efficiency 
of our consul, Johnson, of Beyroot, as he tells me. 
The, whole Eastern region seems to fear, respect, 



128 TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 

trust, and court Americans. May we do the 
world good, and ever prove ourselves worthy 
of confidence ! The Lord give us wisdom ! I 
shall soon be on the road to Jordan. 



CHAPTEE XXII. 



LETTER : MOUNT MORIAH AND VICINITY. 

HIS sacred mount is, without doubt, the 
identical spot where stood the holy 
Temple of Solomon, but where now 
stands the great Mosque of Omar. Mohammedan 
worshippers now occupy all the space within the 
massive high walls. I climbed up into Pilate's 
Judgment Hall, and looked from the observatory 
into the beautiful, sacred, renowned enclosure, 
and closely viewed the exterior splendors of the 
mosque and the ornamented grounds. I was de- 
lighted. 

Once I went very close to the open gate, and 
looked in, but was soon ordered away. By their 
rule, if I had gone within and spied out their 
works, I should have suffered the penalty of 
death, or become a Mussulman. Once they 
9 129 




130 



TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 



stoned me for looking at them, .while standiug as 
far off as the old Pool of Bethesda. But soon 
they will be more liberal, by treaty. Near the 
western wall are the Jewish quarters and their 
wailing-place. "The veil is yet upon their 
heart." What can be done for Jerusalem? But 
I must take another stroll, and rest a little. 

As I have often referred to Elder Jones, it may 
be quite edifying to read a few extracts from his 
letter to the American Baptist : — 

" Palestine, February 17. 

" Dear Brother Brown : Your very kind, 
sympathizing letter of October last came to 
hand per Elder Emerson Andrews, whom I 
found in the Casa Nuova ■ — > Catholic Hospice — 
on the evening of the day following his arrival. 
But how changed he is since I saw him fifteen 
years ago, at the Triennial Convention in Phil- 
adelphia. Brother Andrews preached for me 
last First-day afternoon, to a congregation of 
twenty-one persons, which is a good number for 
an English assembly in the Holy City, consid- 
ering the many who are tied fast by sect and 
caste. Brother Andrews was very happy, and 



MOUNT MORI AH AND VICINITY. 131 

cleepty interested us all by his own peculiar 
style in discoursing upon Romans i. 16 : "I am 
not ashamed of the gospel of Christ." I need 
not say that I am rejoiced to see him, to talk 
over old times, and call up the reminiscences of 
by-gone years. Perhaps twenty thousand con- 
verts will testify to his labors in the day of 

r 

accounts. 

"The work here is hard and slow. I have to 
strike hard, night and day, to sow seed broad- 
cast, with patience and hope. Sometimes things 
look favorable, then cold, stiff, and forbidding. 
To answer the demands of this modern Babel is 
a labor not to be coveted ; but by God's bless- 
ing a minister may hope for and enjoy much in 
preaching the gospel in Arabic, German, French, 
and many other tongues. The majority of Prot- 
estants here are Episcopalians. I think the ten- 
dencies are to a happier state in the Evangelical 
portion of the community. There is room enough 
for all. 

" The Greek and Roman church power is great 
upon the people, they being held fast by money 
in the shape of "backsheesh. 

" Yesterday Elders Barcley, Andrews, Per- 



132 



TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 



rine, and myself took a rough ride over the 
hills on this high Mountain range, northward, 
to Michmash, for some three hours. The scen- 
ery is made up of rocks, hedges, valleys, scat- 
tered villages, and deserts of Judea, and along 
the Jordan, the mountains of Moab, Rock Sim- 
mon, and much else of great interest to the 
Bible student. Pray for me, and for the peace 
of Jerusalem. 

" Yours, in the gospel, 

"William M. Jones." 

The above is from our mutual friend and dear 
brother in Christ, whose knowledge, skill, and 
kindness have merited my gratitude. 



CHAPTEE XXIII. 



LETTER : VISIT TO THE JORDAN AND THE 
DEAD SEA. 



EBRUARY 27. I have had a glorious 
season, for three days past, in visiting 
the river Jordan, and the old spot of 
Jericho, and the Dead Sea. On the morning 
of our starting, as our company was gathering 
on the flat roof of the Mediterranean Hotel, the 
snow came down like wool, and the weather 
signs looked rather squally ; but being ready, 
and with courage fired up, we left in full tilt on 
our road to Jordan. Physically it is a "hard 
road to travel." 

A select company of twenty — ministers, law- 
yers, merchants, professors, with a consul and a 
governor, all mounted on Arabian horses, headed 
by a commissioned Bedouin chief on his high- 
• 133 




134 TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 



mettled steed — dashed onward over rocks, hills, 
and pitfalls, through deep gullies and wide plains, 
till we saw the "sights." 

Reverends Orton and Perrine, Chaplain Bet- 
tinger, Professor Brewer, Governor Seymour of 
Connecticut, Consul Johnson, and many other 
choice spirits, gave delight to our journey. 

Passing out of St. Stephen's Gate, on the east 
side of Jerusalem, near the old Pool of Bethesda, 
we descended the hill, crossed over the Brook 
Cedron and the Mount of Olives, and on to 
Bethphage and Bethany, to the old commemo- 
rated grave or tomb of Lazarus. Truly the 
name of the righteous is fragrant, and shall be 
"held in everlasting remembrance." Here we 
alighted, and, with deep emotions and solemn 
reflections, gazed upon the keepers, upon the 
dilapidated walls, upon the ruins and scenery 
around, and then looked into the deserted tomb. 
Here Jesus wept with Mary and Martha (see 
John xi. 1-46) ; and how could we help weep- 
ing, under the eventful circumstances and thrill- 
ing associations ? We looked intensely, and 
scarce a word did speak, but, hesitatingly turn- 
ing away with a last, lingering look, we finally 



VISIT TO THE JORDAN AND THE DEAD SEA. 135 

remounted our saddles, with Bible imagery on 
our minds, and, in funereal pace, gradually left 
the grave behind. 

Soon noon came, and we halted for dinner. 
Our dragoman, with ample stores, spread the 
simple table on the ground, while we were seated 
all around. There we joyfully ate a sumptuous 
feast, in primitive style, drinking, as temperance 
men, the pure water, just drawn from a rocky 
pool near by. 

All rested and refreshed, we again sallied forth 
over slippery rocks, deeply-worn stone paths, 
over steep ridges, near precipices and "bottom- 
less pits," till we sighted the Valley of Jericho, and 
the Jordan. Splendid scene ! We here beheld 
the three Lazarine or " Quarantania " Mountains, 
one much higher than the others, on which Jesus 
Christ fasted, and was tempted by the devil. 
(Luke iv. 1-13.) Our feelings can better be 
imagined than described. Near the foot of the 
mountain, we visited Joshua's Pools, drank of 
the water, viewed his old garden and farm, cut 
reeds for pens, enriched our portfolios, and left, 
via Jericho, for Jordan. But, bad as were the 
appearances, we fell not * among thieves." 



136 



TEAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 



On our delightful ride over a fine sandy, 
loamy, fertile, wide plain and valley, we rode 
nine miles on a quick gallop, jumping hillocks, 
ditches, hedges, and holes, over good old Abra- 
ham's farm, till we made the celebrated "Pil- 
grim's Ford," so noted for the passage of the 
children of Israel under Caleb and Joshua, and 
for the baptism of Christ by John the Baptist, 
and for the annual visits of the pilgrims and 
others for the last eighteen hundred years. 

We found Jordan's banks steep, rough, bushy, 
and gravelly, and the bed of the river some one 
hundred and fifty feet wide, and the water from 
three to eight feet deep in a dry time. The wa- 
ter is quite swift in places, so that it is unsafe 
to walk in the shallows, on the rolling, smooth 
pebbles. It is very turbid with loam and the 
abrasions from trees, but becomes clear and fit to 
drink after standing to settle a while, and is 
good to bathe in, as twenty of us can testify by 
our own happy experience in swimming there. 

Regaled in body and spirits, after getting 
specimens of stones and sticks, we galloped our 
course back to Jericho. By the way, we became 
benighted and puzzled, and wandered wide, but 



VISIT TOi THE JORDAN AND THE DEAD SEA. 137 

regained our path by sighting the stars, and those 
"mountains of temptation," till we clambered 
over a little brook, and encamped on the ruins 
of Jericho, that famous city, near the old tower, 
and beside the flowing brook. We ate a good 
supper at ten o'clock, and retired to our beds to 
sleep, under the music of jackals and other wild 
beasts. Sweet was our rest. How Achan must 
have felt here when stoned to death ! What a 
change ! 

The morning dawned beautifully. We sur- 
veyed with delight the historic city, and the 
vicinity. We saw and tasted the "golden apples 
of Sodom," but O, how bitter ! We threw them 
away. Our breakfast all over, and horses ca- 
parisoned, we were soon off on a canter over the 
variegated and rich meadows for a bath in the 
Dead Sea. This sea is still, and smooth as 
glass, being so salt and heavy. The water tastes 
horribly, and will make the eyes or any sore spot 
smart severely. I was the first to plunge in, 
head first, and thereby disturb the placid waters ; 
but soon, by the density of the salt, bituminous, 
and alkaline waters, I was thrown on the surface, 
as if resting on a bed. Others imitated my 



138 



TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 



example. I here lay floating, with hands and 
feet at liberty, for fifteen minutes, and, the 
while, singing the sweet hymn, "Star in the 
East." An Englishman once said that " he 
punched his body to get himself under water, 
but could not, and that in the sunlight he spar- 
kled all over, as an animated stick of ? rock 
candy,' and felt as if covered with pepper and 
razor points." But this is all exaggeration. You 
may smart, if your skin is not good, or only be 
covered with rough particles of salt, for the 
w T ater is stronger than brine. I bottled a pint of 
it for you and my friends. 

This ancient Sodom, destroyed by fire and 
brimstone in the days of "righteous Lot," re- 
ceives the shadows of the mountains on the west, 
and looks, at the going down of the sun, like 
w the valley of the shadow of death." O, how 
dismal are the shades ! Its vicinity looks like 
shame, theft, and murder provoked. % God's 
judgments yet instruct us. 

Well satisfied with this part of our stroll, we 
mounted our horses, and sped over the rough, 
high, slippery, rocky, mountainous, steep, irreg- 
ular, crooked pathway, through dangerous tribes 



VISIT TO THE JORDAN AND THE DEAD SEA. 139 

t 

of Ishmaelites, till we came to Mar Sabas, on 
the high acclivities of the brook Cedron, nine 
miles south-east of Jerusalem. Here we stopped 
for the night in the Greek monastery. Saint 
Sabas is built many stories high, like so many 
steps, up the ascending cliffs, till the upper 
story crowns the top. This was a stronghold 
for the monks in the wilderness of Engecli, till 
the Persian king, they say, "made war upon 
them, and slew fourteen thousand of their num- 
ber," the skulls of whom we saw piled up in a 
room within. It was a ghastly sight ; but O, the 
memory of bloody scenes ! Many Greek monks 
are here yet, but are very cautious. 

We were introduced in due form, as our letters, 
signed by our consul at Jerusalem, were received 
and answered by a person in the third story, 
letting down a basket by a rope, as in the days 
of Paul, from the wall. Then the main door 
was soon open, and we all partook of their 
bountiful hospitality. There, too, you may be- 
hold the life-size statues of Christ and his apos- 
tles, in bold relief, as if massive and of pure 
gold. It was one of the grandest of exhibitions, 



140 



TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 



and most powerful in effect upon us all. We 
shall never forget this sublime monastery. 

After sight-seeing, rest, and breakfast, we 
steered for the Holy City, via Bethlehem, pass- 
ing by many of the encamped Bedouins — Ish- 
maelites, dwelling in the " black tents of Kedar," 
tents covered with cloth made of dark goat's- 
hair ; but we feared them not. As we had al- 
ready visited the birthplace of Christ, we staid 
there but a short time, though we lingered a 
while in the shepherds' valley. 

On our path, half way between the cities, 
three miles from Bethlehem, we visited the tomb 
of good old Rachel. It is a high, white dome, 



surmounting an oblong monument of stuccoed 
masonry, walled around. To this grave of a 
mother in Israel persons of all creeds delight to 




kachel's tomb. 



VISIT TO THE JORDAN AND THE DEAD SEA. 141 

4 

resort, and pay homage to her memory. Infi- 
dels, Mohammedans, Greeks, Jews, and Chris- 
tians vie with each other in sacred regards to 
her worth. Turks and Arabs seek to have their 
ashes and the bodies of their children repose so 
near to Rachel's monument that the shadow of it 
may sweep over their graves. How honored is 
her memory, while Absalom's Pillar is pelted 
with stones, on every side lying in hateful heaps 
around ! Well might such a virtuous, godly 
wife cost old Jacob fourteen years of hard labor, 
and be inexpressibly cheap at that price ! 

Passing on another hour's ride, we arrived 
safely and thankfully at our quarters on Mount 
Zion. 



CHAPTER XXIV. 



letter: scenes of the Jordan. 



ARCH 2. The holy Jordan rises a few 
miles north of Cesarea Philippi, start- 
ing out from among the high rocks on 
the western slope of Mount Hermon. At its 
source a small pool is formed near the foot of 
Anti-Lebanon Mountain, whence the Jordan 
meanders through the valleys, receiving divers 
tributary streams, till it extends into the Sea of 
Galilee, close by Bethsaida. This place, on the 
eastern bank, is still regarded with interest, and 
often described to pilgrim strangers. The beau- 
tiful valley, all through, is variegated with the 
most beautiful and luxuriant fields, fruits, and 
flowers. 

On each side of the river, the bottoms and the 
hill-sides are very productive. How fragrant 

142 




SCENES OF THE JORDAN. 



143 



the richly-varied flowers in full bloom, aucl how 
generous the corn, the olive, and the vine ! The 
size of the stream and its rapidity vary much, ac- 
cording to the season, drought, or flood. Feb- 
ruary and March bring floods from rain and 
melted snow, rising some ten or twenty feet 
high, overflowing the lower and higher banks, 
and spreading out from fifty to two hundred and 
fifty feet on each side ; yea, sometimes for many 
miles, during the swellings of Jordan. It is often 
slow, sluggish, moderate, precipitous, high, deep, 
or rolling in mountain torrents, according to the 
season, and country it flows through, on its 
changeable passage for many miles, till it opens 
into the Dead Sea, five miles below the Pilgrims' 
Ford. 

To us Christians the scenes of the Jordan are 
full of instruction and interesting associations. 
Lot left Abraham, and chose all the plains of 
Jordan. Its waters parted when the Ark of the 
Covenant was carried to the stream, and the 
children of Israel^ with Joshua, their leader, 
passed over right against Jericho, seven miles 
west of Jordan. It is also celebrated as the 
sacred river in which leprous Naaman, captain 



144 



TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 



of Syria, was dipped seven times, and healed. 
Here, too, multitudes, from all the surrounding 
regions, and Jesus Christ himself, were im- 
mersed by John the Baptist. To commemorate 
Christ's baptism, at Easter, thousands of Pil- 
grims from Russia, Greece, and other nations, 
come to Jerusalem; yea, and from every king- 
dom and clime in Christendom, they repair to 
this consecrated spot, to witness the scenes, or 
to immerse themselves in the name of the Triune 
God at these anniversaries, in order to cleanse 
themselves from all unrighteousness. 

This meeting, or performance, is at the Pil- 
grims' Ford, about five miles above the Dead 
Sea. The anniversary of our Saviour's baptism 
takes place on the 18th of April. At that time 
you may see multitudes of Poles, Russians, 
Copts, Armenians, Greeks, Syrians, and others 
from the four quarters of the globe, old and 
young, of every style, caste, and language, going 
on donkeys, camels, horses, mules, or on foot, 
as best they can, till the devotees, in great 
haste, careless of all obstacles, disrobe them- 
selves, and eagerly plunge into the baptismal 
stream. Some of the upper classes are more 



SCENES OF THE JORDAN. 145 

modest, and dress themselves with elegant long 
robes for their immersion, and preserve the used 
robe as a robe of righteousness, and a winding- 
sheet for their burial. This is regarded as pa- 
tent evidence of the pilgrim's merits, and a title 
to the hoped-for state. The candidates are very 
enthusiastic, and all absorbed in their own per- 
formance, to the utter disregard of all observers. 
Thus rushing down the banks, and hastening into 
the river, each one of the vast multitudes im- 
merses himself or herself, or is dipped by the 
help of another, three times in succession, below 
the surface of the water, in honor of the Father, 
and the Son, and the Holy Spirit. 

The bathing dresses of the pilgrims are long 
and of divers colors, and textures, and qualities ; 
but most of them are white, with a black cross 
inwrought upon the breast. A scene similar to 
the above I once witnessed in Greece in the 
Bay of Athens and Piraeus, on the 18th of Jan- 
uary last. At the ceremony of Baptizing the Cross 
(mentioned in a previous letter), many Greeks, 
nearly naked, and others well robed, plunged wild- 
ly into the clear cold water, immediately after the 
immersion of the cross by the priest, dipping 
. 10 



146 - 



TEAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 



themselves three times, hastily, as they do at the 
* Jordan. 

Soon as they arose, they shouted vociferously ; 
but after remaining awhile, unmindful of the 
severe cold weather, they went on their way, 
making merry till they arrived at the chapel, or 
at their homes. 

But these pilgrims to the Holy City and the 
Jordan, after their baptism, re-attire themselves, 
bottle some of the water, and cut branches of 
the willows, consecrating these also, by dipping 
them in Jordan. These they bear away to their 
distant homes, as sacred reminiscences of their 
sacrificial pilgrimage. In a few hours, apparent- 
ly satisfied, the crowd disappears as if by magic. 
The willows and other small trees, with the 
diversified ridges and plains, eclipse our further 
observation in the distance. 

Jordan is very rapid at this ford below the 
eddy, crooked, muddy, and in some places, above 
and below, is three, eight, twelve, or twenty feet 
deep, according to the season and circumstances, 
and is often from fifty to two hundred and fifty 
feet wide, saying nothing of its increased width 
in great freshets, already noticed. 



SCENES OF THE JORDAN. 



147 



The eastern bank is very steep, generally ; 
but the western is low and variegated with trees, 
fruits, and flowers in great luxuriance. The 
locust tree is called, in derision, "the bad boy's 
tree," as the prodigal son hungered for it. 

As we leave here for the Holy City, we travel, 
generally, over seven miles, through a partly 
cultivated plain, interspersed with sand hills, 
ravines lined with shrubbery, then over gullies, 
and brooks, and thorny hedges, till we come to 
Jericho. Here, in gloomy ruins, you may see 
the remains of the* old castle, the house of 
Zaccheus, a few Arab huts, and some filthy in- 
habitants. % 

Two miles farther west we come to the mar- 
gin of Joshua's Garden and beautiful pools. 
Casting our eyes still westward, we behold the 
notable Lazarine, or " Quarantania " Mountains, 
on the highest peak of which our Saviour is said 
to have been tempted by Satan. On the south 
we view the Dead Sea, which,^at evening time, 
is most strikingly the valley of the shadow of 
death, as I have before stated. On the east we 
gaze upon the high mountains of Moab, Nebo, 
and Pisgah, at the foot of which we would sing 
anew, — 



148 



TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 



6 £ On Jordan's stormy banks I stand, 
And cast a wishful eye 
To Canaan's fair and happy land, 
Where my possessions lie. 

Could we but climb where Moses stood, 

And view the landscape o'er, 
Not Jordan's stream nor death's cold flood 

Should fright us from the shore. ,, 



CHAPTER XXV. 



letter: farewell to Palestine. 



EFORE leaving Jerusalem I made a 
number of visits, besides those al- 
ready noticed. On a delightful morn- 
ings — and we have many such in this region, — 
Elder Jones and myself, mounted on two fine 
nags, galloped over the hills, and through the 
valleys of Judea, near Rachel's tomb, past Beth- 
lehem, for nine long miles, to Solomon's Pools, 
situated in a south-westerly direction from the 
Holy City. They are three in number, varying 
from three to five hundred feet in length, by one 
hundred and fifty to three hundred feet in width, 
— eye measurement, — : one just above the other, 
covering the brook which flows from the Foun- 
tain Sealed. There is now but little water in 
the pools, and that is confined chiefly to the 

149 




150 TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 



channel and the lowest pool. It is now, indeed, 
a dry time. 

The pools are very picturesque, and are formed 
by a deep ravine between two ridges, terraced 
by nature, from the lowest point upward, by 
beautiful layers of white limestone, making fine 
steps, with four thick, high walls or breastworks 
of stone and mortar, thrown up, cemented, reach- 
ing across from hill to hill, with lesser walls, 
along some of the lower sides of the ridges. 

The inside of the pools presents, as a natural 
formation, a series of descending steps from the 
upper strata of the side walls, gradually letting 
you down to the lowest stage of running water. | 
These bottoms, or plateaus, are finely variegat- 
ed, but irregular, having steps and offsets, well 
adapted for baptizing multitudes, fast , as they 
might come, at all times and seasons, at any 
desirable depth of water. Said Rev. Mr. Per- 
rine, a Methodist minister, while viewing the 
spot, "Nothing better for the purpose of bap- 
tizing by immersion could be conceived, if made 
expressly for that object." "Amen," I said. 
" We are right.' 5 

These pools are mostly supplied by the rains 



FAREWELL TO PALESTINE. 



151 



or melting snows of February and March. So 
there come from the side hills or ridges the 
waters that fill the pools. But the only living, 
tributary stream is from the Fountain Sealed, 
spoken of by King Solomon. This is about one 
hundred rods above and west of the upper pool. 
It is well protected by a small entrance, stoned 
around, which many travellers pass through to 
see the subterraneous fountain ; but I was too 
large, in winter dress, to find admission through 
the cave's mouth, though I tried hard to screw 
myself down to the edge of the fountain. This 
is never failing, and well supplies the channel of 
the pools in the dryest times. O, let sinners re- 
pent and be baptized ! 

These waters are conducted by a stone and 
mortar canal, called the Pottery Canal, — some- 
thing like the Croton aqueduct, — down past 
Miss Miner's lost gardens and farm, to the city 
of Bethlehem, where some of the water is taken 
out for washing and other purposes. Then it 
continues on six or seven miles farther, through 
the Shepherd's Valley, around the hill of the 
Greek convent, — the "half-way place" between 
the sacred cities, — near the Hill of Evil Council 



152 TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 



and the Potter's Field, amidst the fine orchards 
of fruitful olives, down through the valley of 
Hinnom, and under the walls of Mount Zion, 
into Solomon's Temple. So now the Mosque 
of Omar, on Mount Moriah, with the worship- 
pers there and the visitors to the Holy City, re- 
ceives these sweet waters. It is thought that the 
waste water contributes something to the rise of 
the Virgin Pools and Siloam. 

We had a delightful ride for the day, and 
made many interesting observations upon the 
very ground where patriarchs, kings, Christ and 
the apostles, so often trod. There was a kind 
of inspiration felt and enjoyed, and as " we 
mused the fire burned." 

At another time, alone and without a guide, 
save a passing pilgrim, I visited St. John's Place, 
or where he is said to have stood and preached 
to multitudes, discipling and baptizing. A Cath- 
olic convent now marks the spot, and the kind 
monks will guide you to the sacred relics. A 
stone, or large rock, is now safely secured with- 
in these walls by lattice-work of iron, or with 
iron grates, to debar visitors from pounding off 
specimens to carry away. On this rock, they 



'FAREWELL TO PALESTINE. 



153 



say, John the Baptist preached some of his 
memorable sermons. Very likely. 

Besides other interesting objects, the monks 
showed me some pictures of surpassing excel- 
lence, namely, John baptizing Christ in the Jor- 
dan, and the multitudes of converts. But, alas ! 
the awful, bloody, yet finely executed picture of 
old cruel Herod slaying the children of two 
years old and under, and the murderous behead- 
ing of John the Baptist ! These are pictures of 
skilful workmanship, on canvas, of many feet 
square, hanging from the high and long walls — 
a ghastly but instructive sight ! I have never 
seen their equal in any other country. I shall 
never forget them. 

Here I quietly ate, and wrote letters, and 
slept. Next morning, after showing me to 
the house-top, and to the interesting things of 
the adjoining valley, and to the breakfast table, 
they kindly showed me my best way to the City 
of the Great King, called by the natives The 
Holy. O, behold the place here in the wilder- 
ness ! O, the memorable preaching station of 
John the Baptist ! But how changed ! Popery 
and Moslemism, indolence, vice, and squalid 



154 



TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 



poverty mark the whole region as a curse. I 
there wandered, meditated, prayed, and wept, 
and gave myself anew to God's service. -But 
after casting back a few lingering looks, I fell in 
with a long train of market-women, carrying on 
their heads all kinds of produce, grain, vege- 
tables, wood, charcoal, meat, fowls, eggs, wine, 
fruit, and flowers. They were very nimble, talk- 
ative, and quite polite. I occasionally met with 
or overtook a donkey train, with men riding and 
doing similar service, during my morning walk 
of nine miles, till I made the city. 

Here I refitted, revisited, and took my fare- 
well view of the city of wonders. I revisited 
and ascended Pilate's Judgment Hall, on the Via 
Dolorosa, overlooking the Temple on Mount 
Moriah, — the sacred arch of "Behold the Man," 
— and enjoyed a splendid prospect, with objects 
of note ; then the Church of the Flagellation, 
where Christ is said to have been scourged ; also 
the stone, or pinnacle, on which they say the 
cock crew w ; hen Peter denied his Lord ; the 
Pool of Bethesda (now mostly filled up, fifty 
or more feet) ; the Jews Wailing Place, on 
the west side of the old Temple, where they 



FAREWELL TO PALESTINE. 



155 



meet on every Friday afternoon, and weep, read, 
and cry aloud, putting their faces between the 
massive stones, and kissing the walls thereof — all 
praying fervently for the coming of the Messiah, 
and making great lamentations ; and next the 
Jewish Synagogue, Greek, and Armenian con- 




JEWS' WAILING PLACE. 



vents, where myriads of pilgrims congregate 
yearly. Again I walked upon, and around, and 
within Zion's walls, and "marked her bulwarks " 
anew. In some places the walls are one hun- 
dred and fifty feet high. 

I also revisited the Mount of Olives, Mary's 



156 



TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 



Tomb, Gethsemane, with its large square plot of 
eight olive trees, walled in, and the Church of 
the Ascension, on the top of the Mount of Olives, 
also the rock on which they say the Saviour left 
the impress of his foot when he ascended to 




MOUNT OP OLIVES. 

heaven,- and the road that he travelled when the 
disciples shouted hosannas, and where Jesus 
wept, as he beheld the city. I shall not soon 
forget these sacred spots, nor the feelings that 
I experienced while treading the ground where 



FAREWELL TO PALESTINE. 



157 



Jesus and his disciples walked, nor the mir- 
acles wrought and prophecies fulfilled and ful- 
filling in their connection. The Lord sanctify 
the whole ! But, alas, the once glorious city 
has come down wonderfully ! Yet we look 
for her resurrection, with faith, hope, and assur- 
ance. 

Farewell now, O Jerusalem, and may the day 
of thy restoration soon dawn, and the song of 
peace and good will be sung the world around. 
"Farewell, friends, I must be gone." 

I left the Holy City on the 1st of March, in 
company with Governor Thomas H. Seymour, 
of Connecticut, Chaplain Bettinger, of the Mace- 
donian, Professor Brewer, of Yale College, Revs. 
Towns, Orton, Perrine, and other gentlemen, 
and rode, via Nebe Samuel's Tomb, Gibeon, 
Elgebe, Valley of Ajalon, where the sun and 
moon stood still during the battle and victory 
of Joshua, and then crossed the mountain's 
ridge, by the camel's path down to Ludd, or 
Lydda, where Peter healed Eneas of his palsy, 
and so on, three miles more to Eamleh, where 
we lodged at the Four Consulates, — American, 
English, Persian, and Prussian, — and fared well ; 



158 



TKAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 



yea, as weeks ago, when we lodged there, at the 
Roman convent. 

This city is a place where some wealth and 
power have concentrated, and is the centre of 
a rich farming region and valley. Much money 
is said to lie buried under ground for safe keep- 
ing, for fear of the Ishmaelites and other maraud- 
ers. The government is poor and uncertain, so 
that enterprise has but little encouragement. 

As we looked and rode over the valleys, like 
Acre and Sharon, we spied the roses and lilies 
in full bloom, among rocks and thorns, and the 
fruit trees coming out in beautiful spring dress, 
till we re-entered the old city of Jaffa. 

Here we were delayed, storm-bound, for a 
week and more, awaiting a steamer for Egypt. 
So I revisited Simon's old tannery, stone vat, 
set-kettles for hot-liquor tanning, and there drank 
at the well. 

It was near here that Dorcas made the aprons. 
I visited also the English Hospital and Jewish 
Home, a fine plantation, a mile out east, for the 
benefit of the Jews, and there partook of the 
hospitalities. O, what fine orchards of oranges, 
lemons, and other fruits, now greet our eyes ! 



FAREWELL TO PALESTINE. 



159 



But we must again say farewell to old Jaffa ! 
Yes, after the last ten clays' lodging in a truly 
Komish convent, all free as we pleased. 

A Greek patriarch and suite join here for old 
Alexandria, and on we sail. Good by. * 



\ 




CHAPTER XXVI. 

LETTER : FAREWELL TO EGYPT. 

ARCH 10. I have just returned from 
Jerusalem, via Joppa, on a French 
steamer. We had a very agreeable 
time of it, with the noble Greek patriarch and 
our own choice company. The weather was fine, 
and the sea calm. How clear the atmosphere is ! 
The stars, instead of appearing to be set in sock- 
ets in the vaulted heavens, seem rather to stand 
out in bold advance, as if hanging by some un- 
seen fixture in the sky, right over the Mediterra- 
nean. We gazed with delight and wonder. We 
at times -had a good view of the verdant shore, 
passed the delta of the Nile, and made this city 
of monuments, evergreens, and windmills. 

Jews, Greeks, Turks, Egyptians, and a sprin- 
kling of all castes and nations, occupy this city 

160 




FAREWELL TO EGYPT. 161 

and vicinity. But yet the railroad and public 
offices of enterprise are .mostly under the direc- 
tion of Englishmen and Americans. The hotels 
and boarding-houses are mostly kept by English^ 
men, Frenchmen, and Italians. Many eating- 
houses are kept by natives, but chiefly of a lower 
order, and for a very common class, and very 
cheap withal. English engines, cars, and boats 
are thought to be preferable to American, though 
not so beautiful or fast. Native cotton in Egypt, 
annual and perennial, is abundant, and increas- 
ing yearly, and bids fair to rival American cot- 
ton. Corn is very abundant, and now lying un- 
husked on the ground, or in ears spread over the 
sand-banks. Cotton and corn stalks are used as 
fuel for burning lime, and brick, and pottery, 
also for heating ovens for baking purposes. 

The soil on the Nile is rich and fertile, from 
one to twenty feet deep, of vegetable mould, 
with a fair admixture of loam, clay, and sand. 
It needs no manure ; and well it does not, for 
this is generally used as country fuel in heating 
houses and cooking food. Some of our emi- 
grants overland to California understand its 
use, too, where there is no other fuel, by the 
11 



162 



TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 



name of "vash." This is prepared, dried, and 
packed up as wood. 

Palm and date trees are very numerous on the 
Nile, and tall, some running up, sometimes, one 
hundred and fifty feet high, and bearing abun- 
dant fruit at their tops. Beautiful indeed to the 
eye, and how sweet the food to our taste ! Here 
we have the "first fruits." The olive tree, too, 
is equally indigenous to this soil and climate, 
and very fruitful. 

Wheat straw is cut fine for mules and camels, 
to be eaten with grain, or alone. Oxen, cows, 
and a kind of depreciated buffalo, are very nu- 
merous, and are hitched or watched while feed- 
ing. Sheep are generally coarse, loose- wooled, 
and look poor, often herding with the goats, and 
sometimes mix and cross, they say ; so that none 
but an expert shepherd can run the line of dis- 
tinction, or tell the difference. Christ, the good, 
gracious Shepherd, knows his sheep, and is 
known of them, though we judge ever so imper- 
fectly. Some sheep look much like goats. This 
is a portraiture of backsliders. How true ! 

There is much game along the Nile, upward, 
such as foxes, rabbits, pigeons, ducks, and many 



FAKE WELL TO EGYPT. 



163 



other kinds, to engage sporting gentlemen from 
the Continent and elsewhere. Fish fill the Nile, 
and, after the overflow subsides, they are left in 
the pools, ponds, and minor streams, in all quan- 
tities, to be scooped out by hand or nets, for 
table use. 

While visiting Egypt, I witnessed a great mil- 
itary parade at Cairo. The officers were of good 
size, form, and. fashion, with most splendid uni- 
forms, and acquitted themselves well ; but the 
soldiers were generally remarkably small, yet 
quite expert. 

The railroads are now doing much for Egypt, 
T)ut the improvements are all from abroad. The 
small farmers rent their six, ten, or twentj r acres 
of land at the agencies of the Pasha, or of the 
sub-agents, and pay enormous rents or taxes to 
support lazy dignitaries, and live themselves 
miserably poor, filthy, and benighted. Only look 
yonder, and behold a man holding an antiquated 
plough, drawn by a woman on the land side, and 
by an ox or an ass at the other end of the long- 
yoke, going in the furrow ! O, mothers, wives, 
sisters, daughters, — women of Christendom, — 
how much you owe to religion ! 



164 



/TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 



The people are not generally ?e given to much 
wine or strong drink," but drink water and cof- 
fee, also take snuff and smoke tobacco, inces- 
santly, from morning till night, sitting and stand- 
ing. They eat the simplest food, in primitive 
style, or worse, and lodge in mud huts, or any- 
where. Living costs them but little. When 
sick, they will lie in the sunshine, to enjoy "the 
healing from its wings." 

The Pasha lives in grandeur in a new palace, 
made expressly for himself and family, having 
one real wife, and some scores of others (?) in 
his harem. His children are but few, and gen- 
erally feeble, as is often the case with polyga- 
mists. Brigham Young may yet aspire to be a 
Turkish pasha. 

But I must close this letter, and lie down — 
not on a feather bed, or on a downy pillow, — 
for I have not found them in Egypt, — but on 
fine cotton ones, overhung with mosquito nets, 
required, here for comfort, even in winter. It is 
getting late. I am to leave here to-rnorrow — 
bound to the Isle of Malta. 



CHAPTER XXVII. 



LETTER : RETROSPECT AT MALTA. 



AECH 14. I have had a good trip 
from Alexandria to this famous is- 
land Malta, which is now a central 
sea depot for the " circulating ships " on these 
"great waters," noticed in Bible history. 

I am now on my return passage, and expect 
soon to visit Switzerland, Germany, and Eng- 
land, on my way to New York. As my mind 
refuses to quit the past scenes, and still lingers 
behind my person, musing with delight, permit 
me to make some new corroborative and desul- 
tory reflections, and notice some passing inci- 
dents, which may refresh my readers. 

I have enjoyed thus far, with only slight in- 
terruptions, a very pleasant and profitable tour. 
The painful quarantines even have had their re- 

165 




166 



TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 



deeming features; and -so I may say of all the 
little, and numerous, and transient vexations by 
delays, deceptions, frauds, beggars, inconven- 
iences, weariness, and sufferings. I "remember 
no more the anguish" for the transcendent "joy 
that succeeds." 

The Turkish government is yet weak, sickly, 
and inefficient, in all parts wherever I have trav- 
elled under its flag ; and it seems peculiar, and 
somewhat wonderful, that the subjects should do 
so well under such imbecile rulers. But the Lord 
overrules all for good. The worth of coined 
money even changes capriciously at the beck of 
the Sultan or Pasha. Wood being scarce and 
dear in the cities of the Levant, and even sold 
by the pound, the inhabitants suffer much, and 
burn the most filthy substitutes. Thorns, such 
as probably composed the Saviour's bloody 
crown, are often gathered, dried, and used in 
large quantities as fuel, thus crackling under 
the pot.< 

The rocks under and in the walls of the Holy 
City are mostly limestone ; and some of these 
are of excellent marble, of splendid colors and 
varieties. 



RETROSPECT AT MALTA. 



167 



Sheep, goats, cows, and calves are grazing 
all around the city, and are slaughtered lying on 
the ground, while very poor. We had no fat 
meat there. 

The horses, mules, donkeys, and camels 'are 
generally kept up for convenience and use, being 
fed on cut straw and grain, but look poor and 
rough. Still they perform wonderfully over 
those hills, gullies, and slippery rocks. My 
fine steed, of some eight hundred pounds' weight, 
with a rider of two hundred and thirty, fell only 
once on his knees during all my rides. We had 
to pay only forty cents per day for rides about 
the Holy City, and some sixty for going so far 
off as to need an attendant with feed. I could 
hardly have believed it to be in the power- of a 
horse to carry me as did the little nags that I 
rode in Palestine ; nor in the power of a donkey 
to carry me, as mine did once, from Cairo to the 
Pyramids and back the same day. 
- Most of the water is offensively poor, gathered 
in rainy seasons — spring and fall — from roofs 
and hills, and not filtered. There are but few 
living streams, and most of the natural springs 
fail in the dry times, or somehow disappear when 



168 



TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 



most needed. A few wells 5 from one hundred 
to two hundred feet deep, yield abundantly in 
dry seasons. A little water runs along the 
brook Cedron, around the old site of the Tower 
of Siloam, so that women were washing clothes 
in it in a dry time. 

There are various Bedouin tribes scattered all 
over Palestine, who claim the districts which 
they occupy. They make game of some stran- 
gers, and extra vain travellers, and fight among 
themselves sometimes, but not very often, they 
say. The Sultan could not subdue these Ishma- 
elites, even by a long and bloody war, but had 
to make terms by a kind of compromise ; so 
that, in going down to Jordan, you must pay to 
their chiefs or sheiks from three to five dollars 
each to get a safe conduct. This fee is now 
fixed by "the powers that be." 

The land is mostly hilly, rocky, full of caves, 
pits, gulfs, precipices, with some high ridges and 
peaks, interspersed with small and large valleys, 
all very fertile when well watered. The beauti- 
ful valleys of Sharon and Acre, as well as those 
of Jordan and all between the seas, are fertile as 
prairies, and often gay with crops, fruits, and 



RETROSPECT AT MALTA. 



169 



flowers. I often saw the lily and the rose in 
midwinter. Near the Jordan and the Dead Sea, 
or on the Mediterranean, it is much warmer than 
at Jerusalem. About Joppa are many orchards 
of oranges, lemons, olives, and the vineyards of 
sweet grapes. And here you may see Mount 
Ararat, the spot which the ark made sacred in 
the days of good old Noah, and also marks of 
the flood. 

Some great changes in Palestine — yea, in 
Christendom and the wide world — must soon 
take place. Jerusalem must be emancipated and 
rebuilt, and her glory restored. The glorious 
hills must echo and re-echo with sacred songs. 
Abraham's old farm, and all the world, shall be 
tilled for God. Peace, plenty, and good-will 
shall crown the globe ! As yet, the harvest 
fields are great, and the laborers few. The 
enemy is numerous and strong, and "iniquity 
comes in like a flood;" but we will raise our 
standard for Jehovah, and "a nation shall be 
born in a day." The New Jerusalem will come, 
and Mount Zion crown the world with glory ! 

Yours for revivals and heaven. 

Malta, March 15. I will, in closing, give my 



170 



TEAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 



friends and readers a few more interesting 
items. 

In Palestine, and many parts of the Orient, 
pilgrimages and journeys are begun at three 
o'clock P. M., at three miles an hour till six 
o'clock, parties preferring to start so as to easily 
send back after encamping for the night, in case 
anything important should be found wanting, or 
be recollected. The camels will travel seven 
days easily without water. " Black tents of 
Kedar " is a term used to reproach the tribe 
of Ishmael. Resting on rocks by night, and in 
their shadow by day, is common in old " Bible 
lands." Lands distant from cities are called 
w deserts," however fertile or well cultivated. 
" Waste howling wilderness " implies wind, 
sand, thirst, woe. Dangerous pits, ditches, and 
slippery paths are common. Streams and wells 
are very variable and deceptive. Fiery serpents, 
scorpions, and asps are dangerous in summer. 
Snow from the peaks of Lebanon is used for ice. 
w Whited sepulchres " are costly, common, and 
much visited. Women carry their children 
astride on their shoulders. People walk, sit, 
talk, smoke, take views, and sleep on the house- 



RETROSPECT AT MALTA. 



171 



top. Arab villages have houses for strangers, 
all free. Bells on teams tend to enliven, and to 
keep beasts from wandering. The gates of Je- 
rusalem are shut at sundown, — except Joppa, a 
half hour later, — and opened at sunrise. Walk- 
ing in the dark in the city is prima facie proof 
of guilt. Mustard trees at Nazareth, as in Cali- 
fornia, are big enough for choirs of birds to sing 
in. Locust-tree pods are coarse, sweet food, and 
very abundant. Tares are like wheat, goats like 
sheep, and impostors like models, till God judges. 
Jews and Gentiles read aloud in a sing-song 
style, even when alone. Many Bible places can 
hardly be identified, being ruined so often. A 
camel's average load is five hundred pounds ; a 
mule's, two hundred and fifty; an ass's, one 
hundred and fifty. From February till June is 
a good time to travel in "Bible lands." Be- 
ware of strangers, guides, or any vain show of 
wealth. 

Be watchful, prayerful, consistent, temperate, 
faithful to the end. Thus follow the polar star 
of Christianity, till we meet in heaven. 



CHAPTEE XXVIII. 



letter: tour of the RHINE. 



HAVE had a delightful journey from 
Malta and Marseilles ; but at the lat- 
ter city we were kept in quarantine 
for two days, because there was "plague" or 
sickness in Egypt — last year! What an impo- 
sition ! What folly ! Yet we patiently endured 
it all, paid our money for it, and rejoiced the 
more when set free. 

Marseilles is now a grand harbor. Having got 
my passport w vised 99 a second time in that city, 
and my banking done up, I soon left for Geneva 
and the tour of the Rhine. 

Lyons, on our way, is a beautiful, enterpris- 
ing, prosperous city, second only to Paris. Our 
railroad was through a fine farming country till 
we approached the mountains. Here we as- 

172 




TOUR OF THE RHINE • 



173 



cended by the side of a river, amid ravines, 
hills, vales, and varied scenery of living green. 
Here rocks piled on rocks, with alternating lay- 
ers of earth between, growing up into splendid 
terraces, beautify the hills and mountains, till we 
hail the city of John Calvin. 

Geneva is truly picturesque, beautifully situ- 
ated, as it is, on a plateau bordering the lake, 
and surrounded with the green hills and white 
mountains. Behold these high Jura mountains, 
and the snow-capped Alps, dressed in bridal 
white from head to foot ! The rich valleys, 
green as summer, and the hill-sides, terraced, 
and covered with grape-vines, greet you — a ro- 
mantic panorama. How delightful ! 

The city contains thirty thousand inhabitants, 
and is noted, at present, for making watches 
and clocks, nice and cheap. It was once the 
stronghold of the Reformation, and has contin- 
ued to be the advocate of liberty. 

The famous John Calvin and his coadjutors 
here preached, and engraved their lives and their 
religion. I visited Calvin's old temple, stood in 
the famous pulpit, and sat in the old-fashioned 
chair. His grave is quite unadorned, and marked 



174 



TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 



only by a headstone, twelve inches high by ten 
wide, with the bare inscription, "J. C." How 
plain, and how sublime ! He needed no other. 
He hated sin, error, and popery. He wrote, 
practically, his own autobiography, his immortal 
epitaph. 

Geneva, during the past winter, has been mor- 
tally and terribly scourged with black measles, or 
putrid small-pox, to the destruction of many 
scores of sufferers. After surveying the place, 
people, curiosities, and enterprises, and review- 
ing its history till the present, I then took the 
steamboat on Lake Geneva for Basle. 

O, what a fine view ! Mont Blanc and the 
whole family of hills were all grand beyond de- 
scription. Lake Neufchatel, too, is twelve miles 
wide by fifty-four long — crooked, often narrow ; 
clear, pure water, the best that I have tasted 
since I left America. It is full of the best of 
fish — skirted with gardens, vineyards, terraced 
slopes, grazing hills, and distant, high moun- 
tains. I felt, by times, just as if I were on a 
lake or in a valley of New Hampshire, only en- 
larged, and adorned with mountains a little more 
lofty than Mount Washington, and scenery more 



TOUR OF THE RHINE. 



175 



varied and sublime. Blessed country ! Sweet 
homes ! 

Basle is a rich, smart, thriving city — the first 
in Switzerland as to importance. Here is one 
of the oldest and largest cathedrals, of real 
Gothic. For a few hours I was involuntarily 
detained, for resembling some one else, but soon 
went on. 

I next visited Manheim, via railroad, and so 
down the river Rhine. We passed meadows 
wide, rich, and w T ell watered, also the productive 
hills and " black forests " which line their low 
borders. 

From Manheim I went by steamboats all the 
way to Rotterdam. As we passed the city of 
Worms, I was powerfully reminded of Martin 
Luther. 

From Mayence to Cologne the scenery sur- 
passes all that I ever saw or imagined. Nature 
and art are here wonderfully combined. You 
may behold fifty huge, old castles, ruins ; high 
and steep hills, terraced to their tops, all covered 
with fine gardens and vineyards; some lofty 
peaks, deep gullies; immense rocks, of all 
shapes, classes, and names ; scenery varied and 



176 TKAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 

sublime; a large, swift, crooked river, bearing 
onward our noble boat over rapids, amidst nar- 
row straits, bold, rocky palisades, and high, 
ever-green mountains. This trip pays well. 

Cologne is especially noted for making sweet 
perfumes. The cathedral, of Gothic architec- 
ture, is the most magnificent and beautiful speci- 
men to be found. It is five hundred and eleven 
feet long by two hundred and thirty-one feet 
wide, surmounted with a vast dome five hundred 
feet high. It was really begun in the year 1248, 
and is not yet finished. It is exquisitely tasty 
and grand to look at, but what a monument of 
error and folly ! 

The Ehine is so very swift in places, that im- 
mense flat-boats are anchored in the middle of it, 
and used as flouring and grist mills, the strong 
current moving the powerful water wheels. 
Skiffs and small boats approach on both sides. 

Rotterdam is an old Dutch city, large, low 
down, full of canals, as of streets, with boats 
moving in all directions, as so many stages. I 
don't like the place. 

I must soon leave for London. 



CHAPTER XXIX. 



LETTER : LONDON AND THE ANNIVERSARIES. 



PRIL 4. Yesterday I left Rotterdam, 
and now I am in the great city of 
Christendom. 
To-day I have listened to the preaching of the 
famous Spurgeon. Truly he is plain, honest, 
full, earnest, varied, fluent, sometimes eloquent, 
and seemingly full of the spirit. I shall (D. V.) 
hear him again, and write you. 

Politics here are now running very high, and 
much is said just now about war. We think 
religious feeling is, at present, on the increase, 
and how desirable ! 

The weather, for a few days, has been as warm 
as June with us, but summers here are cool. I 
shall stay so as to attend the spring anniver- 
saries, and then steam away for New York. 
12 177 




178 TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 

April 11. Yesterday I heard Spurgeon twice. 
There is no doubt about it, the 3 7 outh of twenty- 
four is really a great preacher — natural and 
spiritual. His matter, manner, and style are 
verily apostolic. I can take no exceptions to 
his pulpit performance. He appears much like 
a true modern revivalist or evangelist. His 
voice is very full, strong, sonorous, and well 
cultivated. He knows well its skilful use. He 
sings well. His prayers are long, importunate, 
and seem to take hold on heaven and earth, hav- 
ing power to prevail, like a prince, with God 
and men. All present seemed to feel very deep- 
ly while he pleaded with God on their behalf. 
They wept. Ah, here is the secret of his power 
and success ! This was on a stormy, wet morn- 
ing ; but the great Surrey Garden Chapel was 
full, and thousands stood, within and without, 
through the whole service of two hours. The 
chapel will hold thirteen thousand. His audience 
was made up of high and low ; about an average 
in quality, I should think, of ordinary congrega- 
tions in London. I saw 'Lady Burgoyne, her 
daughter, and a sprinkling of the nobility. The 
lady has lately been immersed. 



LONDON AND THE ANNIVERSARIES. 179 

Though many of the upper classes hear Spur- 
geon occasionally, the more common people hear 
him constantly and gladly. I am told that honor- 
ables often sit under his melting eloquence with 
delight. I believe, as he does, that God has 
given him a particular and responsible mission 
to fill. His influence is still increasing, and 
shedding its genial rays far and wide. May the 
Lord consummate his most glorious work in 
bringing prodigals home. 

The Church of England has been wonderfully 
awakened by recent influences. Eeligion and 
temperance are really gaining ground in all the 
evangelical denominations, and making some in- 
road upon others. Bishops, lord bishops, and 
elders are putting on the reformation coat. I 
heard the so-called Lord Bishop of London the 
other night at Exeter Hall. He really talked 
like a spiritual father. I heard, the other even- 
ing, the celebrated Methodist preacher, Pun- 
cheon ; but how unlike the spiritual Spurgeon ! 
Yet he was very animated, florid, fluent, artistic, 
pointed, logical, antithetical, evangelical. He 
took a wide range, orator-like, and sustained his 
influence till the last, holding a crowded and de- 



180 TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 



lighted audience of a thousand for a good hour. 
He refreshed the intellect, but seemed not so 
much to touch or melt the heart, as the bold, 
pathetic Spurgeon. His subject was, the all- 
sufficiency of God. He is an itinerant, and is 
the most noted preacher among the Methodists. 
But no endowments or attainments will avail 
without the power of the Spirit. O that God 
would sanctify the church, and raise up more 
Holy Spirit preachers, and send forth more suc- 
cessful missionaries ! O for a membership of 
godly lives ! 

Professor Finney, the distinguished Evange- 
list from America, is preaching here, in the Bap- 
tist Church. His audiences are large on Lord's 
days, but rather small on week-day evenings. I 
met him as an old acquaintance, took part in the 
meeting, and heard him preach the other evening 
with much pleasure. He is in good health, quite 
happy ; not so full of fire and physical power as 
formerly, but full of unction and pathos. 

The pastor informed me that they w r ere suc- 
- ceeding very well in their special effort. Some 
youthful preachers have here arisen up, and seem 
to eclipse their seniors. May God bless the agents 



LONDON AND THE ANNIVERSARIES . 181 

and instruments of his own choosing, — old or 
young, — and we will rejoice. 

The Crystal Palace is some miles out of the 
city, very large and costly, but much cut up into 
courts and stalls, and the articles are so badly 
arranged, that I was not pleased, as I was with 
our American Palace. 

May 1. I will redeem my promise, and say a 
few things about the anniversaries in London. 
These usually begin in the latter part of April, 
and are continued some two weeks. I have 
spent a month here, and participated in these 
and in other religious meetings ; but they are 
not equal to ours. 

The Baptist Evangelical Society is an associa- 
tion of regular Baptists, for the purpose of main- 
taining inviolate the distinctive principles of the 
New Testament, for training candidates for the 
gospel ministry, and for sustaining missionaries 
and churches, of the apostolic order. With this 
body there is no yielding to carnal policy, pas- 
sion, friends, or fashion, for popularity or con- 
verts. Though small, they are yet a power in 
London, and must prosper, for the truth of God 
is with them. They, of course, have but little 



182 



TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS • 



sympathy from the irregular, mixed, and loose 
communionists. Our meetings are quite full and 
interesting. As I was kindly invited to move an 
important resolution, I there consented to speak. 
A social tea-party was held between the after- 
noon and the evening sessions. 

The Bible Translation Society was of much in- 
terest. Sir S. M. Peto, baronet, took the chair, 
and made an excellent speech, and was followed 
by many able speakers. Dr. Steane added much 
interest, pleasure, and power to the occasion. 
This society is a great favorite with him, and is. 
similar to the Bible Union in origin, objects, and 
efforts. 

The Baptist Union, with Dr. Ackworth in the 
chair, had a powerful meeting. Attendance 
good. Many able speeches were made by Drs. 
Hinton, Steane, Hoby, Burns, and Evans, and 
many others, who addressed the meeting at dif- 
ferent times. Our dear brother Lehmann, of 
Berlin, read a most interesting and thrilling pa- 
per upon the interests of Christ's kingdom in 
Germany. He is a very learned, able, and pow- 
erful speaker, much like his yoke-fellow and 
apostolic missionary — brother Onken. God is 



LONDON AND THE ANNIVERSARIES. 183 

truly working wonders by his faithful Evange- 
lists. I will try to get the most important 
items and statistics for your excellent paper — 
the American Baptist. 

An appeal and certain resolutions were passed 
to memorialize the Baptist churches in America, 
on some vexed questions, but with some dissent- 
ing voices, fearing for the effects. 

Having been kindly invited, by a unanimous 
vote, to address the meeting, I thanked the 
Union for their expressed regards for America 
and myself. I assured them of our brotherly 
love and reciprocity, and that, whatever their 
piety and wisdom might suggest, all would be 
duly appreciated by their good and faithful 
friends in America, and that they should in- 
dulge no fears of hindering the glorious re- 
vival, for it was the work of God, and too 
deeply rooted and established in Christian hearts 
to be overturned or retarded by a memorial so 
kind and truthful. Surely it would rather di- 
rect, encourage, and strengthen the young and 
old converts. So by all means let it go. And 
as to irritating minds and chilling hearts in 
America by their resolutions and denunciations 



184 TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 



of our sins, I assured them that they need have 
no fearful apprehensions, as we had often heard 
much severer and more recriminating addresses 
from our own moral reform advocates. Truth is 
mighty, and will ever advance the Redeemer's 
kingdom. Dr. Hoby remarked to me, as I sat 
down, "You, my dear brother, have said just 
enough, and that just right." 

Then, O, drunkenness ! Curse of Great Brit- 
ain, America, and other nations, — twin sister to 
the pit, — I cannot describe the horrors that I 
feel to all slavery, and to thee ! Nor can I ex- 
press the deep disgust and pity that I have felt 
while witnessing the abominable drinking habits 
of many in England, of the caste, the common 
and poor people, of professors of Evangelical 
religion, and of Christian preachers who minis- 
ter at God's altar ! May the Lord destroy each 
and all of these great evils and national sins, 
and give us freedom indeed ! 

The Baptist Irish Society anniversay, with 
Hon. Mr; Corderoy in the chair, was well sus- 
tained. The speeches were warm, interesting, 
and moving, as if from Irish hearts, full of truth, 
love, and heavenly fire. 



LONDON AND THE ANNIVERSARIES. 185 

May 8. The Baptist missionary and farewell 
meeting was held at Exeter Hall, with the Earl 
of Carlisle in the chair, and was a full and inter- 
esting feast for the conclusion of these anniver- 
saries. Many of the speakers were truly elo- 
quent, especially the Eev. Mr. Puncheon, who 
several times brought down the house. Brethren 
Brown and Noel were in their element. I have 
had a very pleasant and profitable season here. 

I have preached for Dr. Jabez Burns, and 
delivered one lecture on my M Travels in Bible 
Lands " to his prosperous and appreciative Sun- 
day school. At its close I called for a vote of 
the school to send their beloved pastor over the 
same field ; and it was not only carried unani- 
mously, but duly executed the next year, with 
regards and the fact forwarded to me soon after, 
in America. I also preached for brother Willis, 
and gave an address to Baptist Noel's people 
on American revivals, and gave also a short 
sketch of my travels. 

London has truly grown much, and improved 
greatly, since I was here thirteen years ago. I 
was then an American representative to the 
World's Temperance Convention, Evangelical 



186 



TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 



Alliance, and other religious bodies, and had a 
precious opportunity for knowledge and im- 
provement, not soon to be forgotten. During 
my present visit I have seen much, enjoyed 
more, and made many valuable acquaintances 
and friends. I have richly and gratefully shared 
the kindnesses and hospitalities of our English 
brethren. May God bless their kind efforts for 
the peace, freedom, and evangelization of man- 
kind ! I took an affectionate farewell of my 
English friends last evening, and took passage 
for America, in the German steamship Weger. 

May 20. We arrived in New York, after a 
rough passage of twelve days, just in time to get 
the best of the wine of our own anniversaries. 

I thank God for his unspeakable grace and 
providences during my late, interesting tour, 
and profitable voyage. I thank my transatlan- 
tic friends for their kindness and faithfulness. 

I am grateful to the American Baptist for pub- 
lishing so well my foreign correspondence, and 
for its promotion of revivals, temperance, and 
liberty, assuring our readers in England and 
elsewhere that we have many true ministers 
who do not bow down to clans, slavery, Baal, 
Bacchus, or caste. 



LONDON AND THE ANNIVERSARIES. 187 



With many thanks and kind wishes, hoping 
soon to be engaged in gathering in precious re- 
vival harvests, I finish this my farewell letter, by 
subjoining an extract from a New York paper : — 

w Rev. Emerson Andrews, widely known to 
the religious world, returned, some two weeks 
since, from his European tour, in very good 
health, and of course in good spirits. Ha is just 
the man to see and to enjoy. And we have been 
greatly interested in the account he has given us 
of his visits to Jerusalem, Bethlehem, the Dead 
Sea, — in which he bathed, — and other points 
of interest. He preached here last Sabbath, re- 
mained in the village for a week, and was a 
guest, most of the time, of Thomas Jefferson 
Eddy, Esq." 

Bless the Lord, and pray for us ! Finally, 
brethren, farewell. 



CHAPTER XXX. 



SERMON (IN LONDON) : THE GREAT SALVATION. 

" How shall we escape, having neglected so great a salva- 
tion? " — Heb. ii. 3. 



FEEL truly grateful, my dear breth- 
ren, that, in the good providence of 
God, I am permitted, after twelve 
long 3 7 ears, to meet you here again. 

Many years ago, complying with a generous 
invitation, I joyfully participated with your dear 
pastor in the World's Temperance Convention, 
in the Evangelical Alliance, and in many other 
religious meetings. Here I addressed you on 
the subject of temperance, in company with 
Father Beecher, Dr. Muzzy, and other mag- 
nates of Christendom. Here I preached to you 
the precious gospel ; and here, too, I enjoyed 

188 




THE GREAT SALVATION. 



189 



your Christian hospitality and generous kind- 
ness. 

May the Holy Spirit magnify and apply the 
text! "Salvation" implies man's fall, moral 
agency, great guilt, helpless condition, and eter- 
nal retribution. "How can we escape, if we 
neglect salvation?" How escape hell, if we 
turn our backs on heaven and God? 

L Salvation is infinitely great. 

When the Triune Jehovah proclaimed salvation 
to lost man through Jesus Christ, it was the 
greatest wonder of the universe. Making the 
world, or man, or angels, was as nothing com- 
pared with it. Herein is wisdom. Creation, on 
all hands, shows infinite power, goodness, and 
wisdom ; but God has eclipsed all things in the 
gift of his Son, and "all his mightiest works out- 
done." No wonder that the angels kept silence 
for half an hour on hearing the good news ! 
Here is the great masterpiece of the manifold 
wisdom, grace, and power of Jehovah — the 
mystery of godliness. Christ is born in the 
flesh, justified in the spirit, seen of angels, 
preached to the Gentiles, believed on in the 
world, and received up into glory. There is 



190 



TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 



our Creator, Redeemer, Advocate, High-priest, 
Saviour, Physician, Friend, and All. 

Salvation is our panacea for all the ills of men 
— for all the diseases of the immortal soul. 
Love, mercy, justice, and truth are combined 
as mighty elements in this great salvation, min- 
gling the divine attributes, like the prismatic 
colors of the covenant rainbow. Behold the 
Lamb of God, which takes away the sin of the 
world ! We are saved from sin, guilt, condem- 
nation, the sting of death, and the horrors of the 
grave, and made to enjoy peace, righteousness, 
and all the Christian graces a hundred fold 
here, and infinitudes of bliss in heaven. O, sal- 
vation, how great ! 

Salvation is precious and costly. Behold the 
only-begotten Son of God, descending from 
heaven, born in a manger, working miracles, 
blessing the needy, persecuted, betrayed, cruci- 
fied, buried, raised, manifested, ascending, seated, 
pleading — all that we might be saved ! What 
wonderful, constraining, redeeming love ! 0,let 

" — rocks and hills their everlasting silence break! " 

God, angels, and all Christians witness to the 



THE GREAT SALVATION. 



191 



greatness of salvation, while many sinners testify 
to their utter want of it. It is infinitely worthy 
of acceptation by all, as it is freely offered to all 




THE CROWN OF LIFE. 



who fear God, of all times, climes, classes, and 
nations under the heavens. Can we neglect so 
great salvation? Salvation gives our only hope, 



192 



TRAVELS IN BIBLE LANDS. 



door, way, truth, life. Let us, my brethren, 
proclaim the gospel the world over, warning 
every man, exhorting every man, trying to win 
all to Christ and heaven. 

Sinners of the old world did not escape wrath, 
nor did wicked Israel, or the Jews; nor will 
latter-day sinners escape the just judgments of 
God, or an eternal hell, if they neglect so great 
salvation. No ; never, never ! 

Let sinners now repent, believe, submit, a'nd 
be converted, and then be immersed in Jesus' 
name. How precious is obedience, and the or- 
dinances of the cross ! O, let us be faithful to 
the end, and receive the Lord's benediction and 
the starry crown. Amen. 

I thank you, dear brethren, for your respectful 
attention this Lord's day morning, and praise 
God for this and other unspeakable privileges. 
Should you ever visit America, I shall be glad to 
receive you, and reciprocate your favors. Breth- 
ren, farQwell. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




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